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Sunday, December 16, 2007

hueco in t-minus 48 hours

so trying to finish up my projects in Colorado have turned into a total disaster. we have received so much snow in the last few weeks that getting outside is nearly impossible (trust me I tried multiple times). so i'm heading to hueco on Monday night not having finished my projects in Colorado but none the less am extremely psyched for the boulders down there. My tips are in good condition and i feel that i am physically in good condition and hope that this years trip to hueco is my best one yet! I will try and post photos etc while i'm down there so keep a look out! Best of luck to all over the holidays and happy holidays!

Monday, November 26, 2007

back in b-town

after a refreshing break and going home for a while, i'm now back in boulder for a few days before the final triple crown at the stone fort, Tennessee. The past few weeks have been super hectic with school along with having to fly across the country every weekend for a comp. but after this weekend the flying will be over with and it will then be only 2.5 weeks until Hueco! I cannot wait for hueco and hope that the weather is good this winter trip. As for this week, i was hoping to get a lot of boulder problems done outside since i wouldn't have that much school work but not to my liking i came home to find a good bit of snow on the ground. im hoping that it will melt off by man it is sooooooo cold out there! Hueco cant come soon enough! so with some luck ill hopefully be able to get out a day or two before i head to Tennessee this weekend. Since I havent posted any pics in a while... here sre some from some of my most recent adventures.


halcyon


Halcyon


confident man


air jordan


chris getting it done the crazy way!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

2008 is on its way!

so 2007 is almost done and i have 5 problems left to do before the end of the year. 2007 was the first year i set out a list of boulder problems to do for the year. Now that i have about a month and a half left i have nearly completed all of them except for 5, those being Suspension of disbelief, Esperanza, Terremer, Nagual, and Slashface. I have to decided to count my entire Hueco trip (which will culminate on the 13th of January 08) as still part of my 2007 list and then start out on my 2008 list. Today I decided i would write up my list and this year i decided i would post this list and as i hopefully tick them off write about them! so here it is, all of which are places on plan on spending lengthy periods of time! 2008 list!

8c

Usa

Rasta Man Vibration Sit (Project), buttermilks

France

Satan I helvete assis, font-Long’s Vaux

Switzerland

From dirt grows the flowers, chironico

South Africa

Amandla, Rocklands

8b+

France

Gecko assis, font-Les Beaux Quartiers

Switzerland

Dreamtime, cresciano
New base line, magic wood

South Africa

Moiste Meisie, Rocklands
Madiba, Rocklands

Austria

Bugeleisen, malltatal
Emotional landscapes, malltatal

8b

USA

Dominated, Yosemite
Xavier’s Roof, Dales Camp

France

Gecko, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Fata morgana assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Satan I helvete, font-Long’s Vaux

Switzerland

Shadowfax, chironico
La prue, cresciano
Mithril, cresciano
The great shark hunt, chironico
Ganyemede takeover, brionne
Vecchio leone, brionne

South Africa

Quintessential, Rocklands
Shosalosa, Rocklands
Black shadow, Rocklands
Armed response, Rocklands
Leopard cave, Rocklands
Ray of light, Rocklands

8a+

USA

Shadow warrior, Yosemite

France

Total eclipse, font-Cul De Chien
Chaos, font-Rocher Gréau
Big Dragon, font-Petit Bois

Switzerland

Pura vida, magic wood
Jack’s Broken Heart, magic wood
Salamander, brionne
Octopus, magic wood
Frank’s Wild Years, chironico
Kirk windstain, cresciano


South Africa
Nutsa, Rocklands
Oral office, Rocklands

this week suspension!!!!



photo andy mann

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Projects

Lately I have been climbing inside a bunch, training for upcoming comps and the recent projects that have been shown to me. I saw this new line at the PB Boulders the other day that is extremely inspiring and quite possibly v14! I tried it a bit the other week and am really psyched to get back on it. It is a slightly overhung wall with crimps the entire way, absolutely possible but is going to be extremely hard. Other than that there are 2 cool new projects at eldo that i believe could hold some potential, i cleaned this new roof at eldo that would have 2 very difficult roof moves to a jug followed by an extremely hard mantle at the lip. The other project i have yet to see but have heard good things. over hung wall holds the whole way up, just needs some good cleaning. Other than that I am psyched for Suspension of Disbelief again once it gets colder. Today was the first snow in Boulder but it was too warm too stick, thank goodness! not psyched on the winterly months ahead.

This weekend I went to Poudre on saturday and climbed two new boulders and one that i had previously sent. I warmed up and went directly to "Circadian Rhythm" to see how i would be climbing that day and fired the climb off first go. Rad, Rad climb, just wish the rock were not behind it in the start. Next I went over the "Sharma Lunge" which I had never tried before and was psyched to give a flash effort. Got super close on my flash go and fired it off next try along with the sit start in two goes as well. After that I headed down to the Scarface boulder and decided I would try to start on scarface and head directly up the face. This climb had previously been done a long time ago but the starting hold out right broke. Im not sure if where I started was a first ascent but definitely was a fun climb and a nice crimper test piece for the area. It then began to rain and the day dwindled to an end as we hiked out in the sleet.

Other than that, I just finished a new abstract painting of the flatirons that i will post a picture of once i get it back from my teacher on Monday. oh projects! I'm psyched! i was def getting a little bored for a while but i really think that the PB boulders along with the projs at eldo will hold some truly beautiful futuristic lines. Other than that, Im heading to Joe's this weekend as long as the weather holds out. Psyched to go for the the FA of the broken "No Additives." we'll see.

Friday, September 28, 2007

dali wall (check)

Yesterday was beautiful so I was psyched on some outdoor climbing. I headed to Mt. Evans to meet up with Herm and Jody. I got there around 3 pm and the temps were better than expected! Herm was working on Greener grasses so i decided my goal for the day would be to complete then entire Dali wall in one day. By 6 pm I had completed the entire wall! Today I'm super tired from yest and a little nervous for my slideshow tomorrow night at the Horse Tooth Hang. Below is the list in order of my ascents yesterday:

Warm up Crack Thing, 1st go
No More Greener Grasses, 1st go
Clear Blue Skies, 1st Go
Mental Masturbation, 2nd go
Ode to the Modern Man, 4th go
Super Gui, 1st go
Dali, 1st go
Pat's Arete Low aka SIT START, 2nd go

I got some video of my most recent ascent of Ode to the Modern Man which I will be premiering at my slide show tomorrow night at the Hang!

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Both Sides of the Spectrum

AMAZING boulder! props to Harry on FA. Go out and try it, it is definitely one of the better new lines in CO!



And here is Lady, the coolest pup in the world.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

coloraddddddo



Been back in Colorado for a while now! Climbing a bunch and trying to find new boulders. Yesterday I went to Camp Dick in search of a new highball that Scott Neel shown me pictures of the previous week. Him and I hiked out there around noon to find a beautiful 25 foot unclimbed vertical granite boulder. I was psyched but a bit scared of the climb itself. The landing was good and together we had 7 crashpads, but i didn't have a spotter, though I'm not sure that if you fell off the top a spotter would be of any sort of help. The boulder begins with a very technical v7 which leads to a nice jug then another technical boulder of about v8/9 for the last 10 ft of the climb. heres a picture to give perspective of the height.



Photos scott neel

As of now, I'm super psyched to find some more new boulders to climb on and hopefully get the FA of. I have a few in mind and really hope that we have a nice snowless fall here in Colorado.



JADE! peep it in the upcoming Dosage V!!! photo steve woods

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

back in CO

I'm back in Colorado for the year once again. Hopefully this year will be as productive as the last if not even more. Lately I have been climbing up at RMNP when it is not raining. I have had a few good days and have thus far sent some really fun climbs. I feel like I am getting back into the climbing out here very quickly.

Yesterday I headed up to RMNP with Daniel and Ryan Sewell. We warmed up then rain a train on the new "Friday the 13th" a really good boulder but i believe to be a bittttt soft for v10. none the less it climbs well and was fun to do. After that we headed up to the green wall area of the park. I tried the top of Jade for a short while and felt strong on it and cant wait to get back from the show in a few days to try it more. Other than that Daniel and I tried "Leviatan Style" and he sent very quickly. My first day on it was very good and I managed to fall off at the top after a little bit of effort.

Next we tried this amazing new project to the left of Jade on the arete. I managed to get the FA from a crouch start and named it "don't get toooo gready." Daniel and Ryan sent shortly after. Daniel and I tried it from the sit and got extremely close! This seems like it is going to be a great new boulder and very hard at that... atleast v13 i think. Once the show is done, I'm heading directly to the boulder to go for the send!

Sorry for no pictures but I don't have my computer right now to load any. But I will have it by tomorrow and will load some new pictures of the project! I'm off to the trade show tomorrow! The competition this year looks veryyyy stiff, should be exciting!

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Back Home

I just got back the other night from a great 20 day trip to California! The weather was warm, but where is it not in the United States right now? Ive begun to understand that there is really no escaping the summer anymore and the easiest thing to do is just deal with the heat because Autumn will be here soon enough.

So, the trip! It was really good, climbed at the areas of Donner Summit, The Tramway, and Mt. Baldy. The climbing out in So Cal should definitely not be put off by the avid boulderer. The Tramway is absolutely amazing granite and the rock seems to be endless! Mt. Baldy is an amazing area as well with beautiful river polished boulders on the side of a now stream that keeps the forest cool during the day. And Donner, though not in So Cal, is amaing as well, yet another place in this country with impeccable granite. Here are some pictures from the trip!



Black Mamba, Tram



White Lines, Donner


Standing on the Head of a Dragon, AMAZING!, Tram


A View as you go up the tram

I am now back home in NJ for one more week before I head back to Colorado for another year! Should be fun! There are a lot of boulder problems that I am very psyched to get on (Ode, Jade, Suspension, and a few others)!!! Now I just have to keep on training for them and the big comp coming up ina few weeks at the OR Show in Salt Lake City.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Another Trip to GB

This time I went with Daniel. He absolutely killed it even though it was super hot out. Here are some Pics!


Something From Nothing


Fotowa SDS

I'm heading to Southern California tomorrow for a 20 day trip! I'm really psyched to see areas like the Tramway, Black Mountain, and Mt. Baldy. Stay tuned for pictures from the trip.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

the newness


not sure what to name it yet...

Monday, June 25, 2007

Great Barrington

This past weekend I made a quick visit to the town of Great Barrington in Western Massachusetts. The town is home to some of the best Gneiss bouldering in the entire country, and has one of the coolest boulders I have ever seen, the Speed Boulder. This boulder has such classics as "Something from Nothing" and "Roses and Blue Jayes." I got up there on Friday morning and went with a local friend to a new are he had found called the darkside just up the road from the main bouldering at Great Barrington. It ended up being a cool spot with some very futuristic projects. I tried one of which that looked possible but ended up getting shut down by it... if this climbe ever goes it will be realllllllly hard... 1 easy roof move followed by an insane dyno and a tough top out. To the right of this line on the same roof I saw a line on the arete that looked much easier and would be a cool FA. I call it "Just in Time," because right after sending this it began raining and we all bailed under a cave until the rain stopped.

The next day was an awesome day with amazing temps for the northeast in the summer, 67 and sunny with a little wind! Josh Lowell (www.biguproductions.com), Cooper Roberts, Sarah and myself headed to the main area of Great Barrington to get some footage for Dosage Volume V. I climbed both a second ascent of this amazing problem called "Castellette SDS" and a repeat ascent of "Roses and Bluejayes" for the film. The footage came out really well and I'm super psyched to see them both all edited up. I also am super psyched to work Daniel on a Colorado Dose with Chuck Fryberger for the New Dosage Volume V as well.

I was really psyched to do "Castellette SDS" since it had been a project of mine for some time now. I began trying it right after I did "Something from Nothing" a few years back but didn't put any more work into it until right after I sent "Roses and Blue Jayes" This past November. I tried it that day and still could not do the crux lock off bump move... similar to that of "left el jorge" but much harder. But this weekend was different, I felt really strong on the lock off move and stuck in a bunch of tries but kept falling off the last wild jump move to a sloping slot. But after a bunch of tries I sent and was very pleased with the progression. I also chalked up this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes" that Dave tried a few years ago after he completed "Roses and Blue Jayes." The line is a 4 move crimp fest up a steep wall with bad feet. Dave believed it to be at least v14 if not v15. I tried the line and I would definitely have to agree! It is really HARD! I can't wait to try it again this upcoming week and this November over my Thanksgiving Break.

Now I'm back at my house in NJ. Daniel flies in tomorrow and we are again off to Great Barrington. I'm really psyched to get him on the lines of the Speed boulder as well as this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes." The weather as of now is not looking to prime but hopefully it will cool off!

I just finished a new painting the other day. I need to upload the pictures to my computer and I should be posting them this evening. OHHH and I would like to say amazing effort to Daniel on the FA of "Jade" in RMNP. I can't wait to try the boulder more this fall!

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Dreaming

I'm back home now. New Jersey. It's been hot and humid and I don't think I have seen a day under 95 since I have been home. My days have been filled with a new painting I am working on, hanging with my family and friends, and training very hard for the upcoming comps along with upcoming perfect Autumn in Colorado. I was going through some pictures the other day and since seeing this picture:


The Green 45 Project. This boulder is a dream of mine and really hope that all my training over the years can come together so that I can send this amazing boulder problem this Fall. I Can't stop thinking about it... and the cold temps of September in RMNP cannot come soon enough. This boulder, when completed, I think will be the hardest in the country if not the entire world. It stands at a level of its own and is sitting right now in Middle Chaos Canyon waiting for someone to come along and nab the much sought after first ascent.

Also, congrats out to a few people on some recent sends; Ty and Daniel on their recent 1st and 2nd ascents of the "Power of 10" RMNP, Sarah Orens on "Even Lovely" Gunks, Laura Griffiths on "Marble Direct" RMNP, and Max Zolothukin on "The Gobot" and "The Kind Traverse" in RMNP. Very impressive sends by all!!!

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Picture Update

Here is the Japan picture update...


Tokyo



A very crowded Bus Station


They drive some crazy cars in Japan

Shibara, The roof with Hydra and all of Dai's hard link-ups



Me on a problem I forgot the name of


Me on "Sen"

Climbing in the Five Ten Cup at PUMP II Climbing Gym

Monday, June 11, 2007

Home!

I am back in NJ now for a few weeks. The last few weeks have been pretty hectic but a lot of fun. I got back from Japan and flew to Denver where I competed in the Vail Teva Mountain Games. It went well and I got second to Daniel. After the comp I went with Tim Kemple and Chris Lindner to Joe's Valley to shoot the cover of the next Urban Climber! The Picture is sooooooooooooo rad! so def check that out when it comes out in a month.


wadedavid.com


After that I went to Salt Lake for a few days hung out with Tim and climbed a bit in the heat. I flew home a few days ago and went to the Gunks this weekend. It was really really hot. But none-the-less got to get some climbing in and sent some really fun lines. My camera was stolen and now I am lacking a camera. I hope to get another soon. Sorry for the lack of photos recently... but I promise they will be up shortly and worth the wait!!!

The rest of this month will be spent training for the ASCI Comp in western Maryland at the end of the month. July I am planning on leaving New Jersey and heading to either Southern California for some high altitude bouldering or to South Africa if I can manage to get everything sorted out in the next week or so. I'm realllllly hoping South Africa comes together as that trip would be amazing!

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Japan

So I have been in Japan for the past few day and it has been amazing! The flight here was about 17 hours long but well worth it. Japan is a really fun place filled with lots and lots of people. I started my trip by flying into the Narita Airport and was shortly thereafter picked up by a 5.10 representative Kahaiho. He is a very nice guy who has been taking me around for the past few days. He is one of the few people here that I can actually communicate well with. It has been hard having to use mostly hand gestures for the last few days but a good experience for myself.

So far I have only climbed in the gym, but it both gyms I went to were really fun. My second day here I visited BPUMP 2. this is an all bouldering gym about 45 minutes south of Tokyo by train. Yesterday I competed in the Five Ten Cup, which was an experience in itself! The day started with a 60 foot lead climb (which I got my butt kicked in), followed by a bouldering competition (Which was a ton of fun and was fortunate enough to win!!!), followed by a speed competition, followed by a campusing competition, followed by a dyno competition. And that was just the semi-final round! The competition was a lot of fun and I will post pictures of once I get back to the United States.

Today, I am headed to an area outside where I have wanted to visit for some time now, Shiobara. This area is home to many of Dai Koyamada's infamous hard lines. I am very excited to try them even though I am pretty tired from yesterday and the day before climbing adventures. I am most psyched for two main lines that I have heard a lot about in the past, Hydra and Karamba. Both climb out a huge 30 foot roof and look to be just beautiful. I will take lots of pictures today and post when I return, as I fly back to the United States tomorrow afternoon.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

New Hampshire

Sorry for the long lapse of no blog entries, I have been busy climbing up a storm in New Hampshire. The state is full of untapped beautiful granite! I had a great trip and the weather cooperated for us decently. Though we did have some rain and humidity, there were still dome really good days of sunshine and good bouldering.

I started my trip at an area close to Hanover, Etna. This area is very small but has some world class granite. The first day there was hot but none-the-less I had a blast. My friends from New York, Rocco and Ed, drove up for the weekend and we went directly to work on this amazing problem called "Blockbuster." The line is beautiful! Here is a picture of Ed working "Blockbuster."


We also went to an amazing boulder in the middle of the woods right by this amazing lak called "Spec Pond." Here is a picture of the Pond!


Spec Pond was a great area and I managed to get the first ascent of this really amazing line, "Spectacle Illusion" that goes right out the middle of this beautiful overhang. I also worked this project to the right which I am really excited to go back for in the future.

I also got to do some climbing at the more well-known areas of Rumney and Pawtuckaway. Both areas were a lot of fun. The granite at Pawtuckaway is amazing!!! Some of the best I have climbed on. At rumney I had a really good day of climbing and flashed both "Satan's Choice" and "Satan on a half shell" both of which are at the black jack boulder. At Pawtuckaway I sent two amazing lines that climb some impeccable granite, "Child of the Storm" and "Stand and Deliver." Both of these lines are on the Swirly boulder, one of the best boulders in all of New England.

All in all, a very exciting week! I am heading to Japan for a week on Wednesday and am super psyched about that. Until then it will be some indoor training to get ready.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Congrats to Daniel on his recent send of Suspension of Disbelief, V14. This boulder problem overcomes an amazing 18 foot wall with really hard moves to a very tough dyno finish. Daniel finished it on his seventh day of effort. He comments,

"if terre de sienne, esperanza, and swarm gets v14 and suspension gets 13,then all those should be 1" I
would completely agree with Woods. Though this is impossible that the above mentioned boulder are V12 but it does give people who have never tried Suspension a bit of an understanding of how hard it is. I have also tried Suspension for 5 days so far and feel that it has to be v14. It is the hardest thing I feel that I have ever tried except for the green 45 project. I cannot wait for the fall to get back on this amazing line when I get back to Colorado again but until then this boulder will definitely remain in my mind at night.

In other news, the gunks was a lot of fun. The weather was not prime but it was nice climbing with my girlfriend and great friends from back east. We went to Lost City on Saturday and had a blast. I managed to flash some really cool problems and the FA of this great v10 i called, "a dose of Novocaine" because it was darnnnn sharp! I also got the third ascent of this great v12, "ghost of an ant" and the FA since it recently broke. I will post some pics of Daniels send shortly.


Again great job Daniel!!! This boulder is quite possibly the hardest thing on the Front Range... but "Ode to the Modern Man" is a strong contender as well! I can't wait to try that one as well this upcoming fall. It does need a second!


Thursday, May 3, 2007

no send :(

well today was really hot and humid.. not the best conditions for sending something at your limit. None the less I had a fun day and some good attempts. Daniel also had some good attempts but did not send. I believe he is going out there this weekend to try it some more. I am headed to the Gunks this weekend! It's been quite a while since I have been to the Gunks. It should be a fun weekend of seeing friends and hanging with the girl friend.

Updates to come on the Gunks trip, and hopefully some pictures!

Suspension of Disbelief Part 2

Here I am again posting over my latest obsession. This boulder problem is just so exciting for me. I feel that it is at my limit right now and completing this boulder would be one of my best accomplishments thus far in my climbing career.

I am heading out to Suspension today with Daniel, his dad, Scott (the master filmer), and his friend Alden. The weather here in CO seems to be cooperating quite well today. As I look out the window all I can see is blue skies and nice white clouds rolling by. weather.com is not predicting any rain and I'm really hoping today is the day.

I will post a re cap of the day later tonight... stay tuned!

To keep the eyes happy, here is a picture I found today that my good friend sent me of this new amazing boulder in NH. I am heading there in a little over a week to try a lot of amazing projects and shoot photos with Tim Kemple. Here is one of the boulders... all of the lines are projects!!!


Monday, April 30, 2007

Weekend

So this weekend was really really nice... if you like sitting around and getting a tan.. It was really REALLY hot on the front range and i'm pretty sure nothing over V10 got sent this weekend. I rested on saturday because of my split tip from Suspension. Sunday rolled around and it was yet again hot as crap. I decided to head up to Clear Creek for the day and see what would be climbable.

We went to this boulder that Nick had done over the winter and I had neither seen or tried before, Animal V10. The boulder pretty much is the worst ever. If it was not a dabfest it would have been really cool but none the less the crux is keeping your kneesoff the pad at the end. Nick repeated it in a few tries and I nearly flashed but dabbed topping out (what a suprise!) but sent a few tries later.

Today was a session a good session at Cats. I felt like I really did not climb too much over the weekend so it was good to train at Cats today.

I cannot keep Suspension out of my mind! My tip is healing really well right now and I'm really hoping Weds lends itself to being an amazing day fro climbing. I am heading out there with Daniel and Keith Ladzinski to shoot photos, so that should be good motivation to send... Cold weather, wind, and no humidity make your way upon Eldorado Canyon for Weds!

Here is a picture I took of my good friend Andy on this really great warmup in Eldo from last weeks session out there!

Friday, April 27, 2007

:(

Yep, I think that describes it all. No send, but definately some progress. I got into the stand start twice, but ended up splitting my tip. I have one week left in Colorado before the summer, I need to do this boulder next week!

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Chaos in Contemporary Society


My art work is finally finished... over 30 hours over work and here it is! sorry I could not hang it up, I didn't have any screws to put it into the wall.


Suspension of Disbelief

ladzinski.com
The weather is looking good for tomorrow! If the weather reamins good, I'm really psyched to go to Suspension of Disbelief... One of the best and hardest boulders on the Front Range!


Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Another Rainy Day in CO

It has been raining for pretty much the last 3 days straight now in Colorado and snowing above 7,000 feet elevation. I woke up this morning to some sun and was super psyched to go climbing outside. By the time Daniel got to my dorm at around 12:30 it had begun raining again and we got super bummed but decided what the heck... let's just drive out to Clear Creek and see how the boulders look.

We had one boulder in mind. Daniel had called Harry and got directions to this new boulder, "Cuntor" put up by Scott Hahn a few weeks back. We drove out there and after getting into the canyon the rain had died down a lot and it looked like not too bad whether sans the very wet rock. We made the epic trudge to the boulder since we could not find the tyrolean and just to our luck only 3 holds were wet!!! We worked it for aabout 30 mins and it was looking very promising. With bits of rain every once in a while, I sent and got the third ascent and after a quick rest daniel also sent with a follow up 4th ascent. Good day for such crappy weather!

I checked out some of the routes on the primo wall and decided I would be psyched to try the route "prime evil" 5.14a sometime soon, possibly next week. After this We decided to leave but we were not psyched to hike all the way back. At first we found a large branch and hiked it up stream aways and tried to make a bridge. That ended terribly with me almost falling into raging rapids and merely escaping getting completely drenched. Since that didnt work we just decided to go to a calm spot and fjord it. That was a success but barely! The water was freezing cold, the rocks hurt our feet so bad and our pants got soaking wet! none the less we did not do the hike all the way out and eventually made it to Theo's wall for a nice training session!

Monday, April 23, 2007

Joe's Trip

Yep, so Joe's Valley is definately one of the best bouldering areas in the country, hands down. Huge proud lines one after another fill amazing valleys. The trip went well and lots of sending went down!
Daniel and I went out there with a few boulders in mind, but the main one being the second ascent of "Mask of God" on the powerline boulder which ticks in at V13. This boulder problem is amazing and quite hard as well. The boulder begins with a V11 crux into a short V7 followed by about a V12 top crux section with a crzy bump finish at about 20 feet off the ground. The landing is not that good and about 7 or more pads is needed to protect the fall. I managed to get to the last move a few times on link but could not manage to finish it, but Daniel pulled through and hooked up the second ascent on saturday night! Congrats to Daniel on such a sick send! Below is a picture of himworking the last few moves on toprope before the actual send.


After not sending "Mask of God" I was kinda bummed but super psyched Daniel got the SA. I hope to go back for it sometime soon! I think my next trip it will go down really fast!

Other than mask of god we had a super fun weekend doing lots of moderates around Joe's Valley. Daniel and Olson hooked up a very fast ascent of "Finger Hut" V10. Daniel and I both sent "We Call him Michael" V10 in two goes each and I did "Beyond Life" on my second go as well. The Beyond life wall is quite an amazing wall and everyone of the boulders on it is high quality and all worth doing.

The rest of the trip went very well Chuck Fryberger hooked up Trent's Mom in short work and I got the first flash the problem has ever seen! Psyched!!! I also flashed my first V12 "Prince of Thieves." This boulder along with many others in Joe's is a hidden jem that should be attempted by all! Daniel got really close to sending but the rain came in and the topout got a little too epic but none the less he will kill it first try next trip.

All in all an amazing weekend filled with really fun people! I'm psyched to return to the land of endless boulders (Joe's) very soon!!!

Friday, April 20, 2007

joes!


I'm heading to Joe's in the next hour or so and am super psyched! Hopefully the weather will be good!!!


Thursday, April 19, 2007

Pictures!

Sick! I have the picture thing figure out!!! Below is "A Maze of Death" one of my favorite boulder problems I have ever done. Though it is not highball like most other lines in Buttermilk Country this boulder has some of the coolest moves I've ever done on some amazing rock!



And above is one other problem that I did in Bishop that had been a boulder I had really wanted to do for a long time, "Spectre." This picture shows the new bit of beta I figures out. Pretty much I did it the same way as Dave on the FA excat instead of going all the way to the sloping hold above my left hand I went to this crappy intermediate first that really helped me keep my feet on.

Psyched on being able to have pictures now!





Post Dos (that means 2 in Spanish)

"UMMMM today was pretty cool." Thursdays are always fun for me... I only have one class in the morning and then the rest of the day is always free! Today, my good friend from back east, Andy Salo, called me up and told me he was in CO and psyched to go climbing. I was psyched and the day was perfect for climbing. We headed out to the Dark Waters boulder. Andy did some really good links and only has about one more move to go until he has done them all... definately could send before his trip is over. Other than that, I repeated Dark Waters in a few goes and climbed formula 50 as well. Both problems were really fun to repeat and the day was just beautiful.After that we headed up to the main area of Clear Creek. I showed Andy a few other cool boulder problems and we climbed on the Mavericks wall fro a while. We tried 41st street and that was a bad decision before I even started climbing on it. First go I got to the top and fell and busted my ankle on this root and second go I fell off topping it out and destroyed my left arm. arg! Andy hooked the boulder with good steez... I was super scared spotting but he killed it none the less.So yea, then we headed to Cats. I climbed for a while but the atmosphere was definately not that of training. Olson, DW, Andy, Danielson, Kev, and me started jumping on the trampolines and trying to do crazy campus moves on these rungs. Oh and i cant figure out how to put pictures on this site... ill figure it out soon...

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

post 1

so yea, I decided to start a blog. I thought it would be a fun idea and give me something to do. I was motivated by the blogs off of climbing.com and thought it might be fun to have one of my own. I plan on trying to update this as much as possible with what I have been climbing on or art work I have been doing.

Today I went up to Eldo. I did this cool thing called "germ free adolescence" along with its sit start for this movie that Andy Mann and Scott ? are filming. The movie production seems to be a super awesome idea: amazing "majestic" (as woods would say) lines all around CO. I had fun shooting with them along with climbing with Daniel today. After ger free we went over to this cool v9, I think it was called "stacking the chips." Daniel climbed it a bunch for the camera and I was content on just doing it once, since I had done germ free like 8 other times. This boulder is quite good and definately worth checking out. I thought it was pretty tough and definately was a bit hair rasing at the top. Andy Mann took some cool pictures today and I'm sure they will be on his site shortly.

Other than that, I was psyched to try "Suspension of Disbelief" today. When we got to Eldo the weather was pretty muggy and gross so I decided that it would not be worth it to hike all the way back there and possibly have it be way too humid to climb on. Plus, I was third day on and that problem, for me atleast, is realllly hard!!! Suspension has been a problem I have been wanting to do for a while. I really hope that I can send it before I have to leave CO for the summer. One more cold day is all I need!

The day was fun, I definately enjoyed the climbs I did as well as this crazy rock jump that we had to do since the water level was so high. Im pretty psyched on this blog idea, seems like fun. Now, back to this painting that has taken over the other side of my life, that I will post pictures of once I am done!