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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

mooiste maise

The other day was a super fun day of climbing. Though i thought i was not going to try anything new before the end of the trip, after watching daniel attempting "Mooiste Maise" i could not refrain from trying the beautiful line. The first day on it was really crappy conditions and the slopers felt so bad. But the next day i came back to it and finished it up in a few tries. Below is a picture of me on the send.

Mooiste Maise, V14 Photo Andy Mann

Update: Beth has sent "Petit Hueco," V8 but claims that it only felt like 12b, all i have to say is what a beast! And Tommy has been continuing to kill it with great progress on an amazing project and sending "Black Shadow," V13 in a very short amount of time! Everyone else is continuing to send at an alarming pace and i don't think a day goes by without at least one person sending one of their projects. The trip is coming to a close shortly but hopefully not without some more amazing rock climbing before departure.

Hot weather is rolling in and we are all resting for the next two days, but with skin hopefully healing, hopefully more sending will be coming soon!

Right after sending Amandla

Friday, July 18, 2008

12 days left (an actual update)

The Rain has stopped and the climbing is going super well!!! The temps have been better, the rock has dried up, and the climbing days are getting better and better. People have left the house and more people have come. Tommy, Beth, and Courtney are the newest inhabitants and super fun to have around. Sarah left the other day but not without leaving a final amazing mark at the end of her trip by sending her 10 day project “Caroline” V10. This was the first of the grade for her and she was super psyched to leave the trip having sent her amazing project!

For the remainder of my trip, I told myself that there were 8 boulder problems that would be awesome to do before leaving. The list is as follows: Amandla V15, Madiba V14, Sky V14, The Power of One V13, The Vice V13, Green Mamba V13, Quintessential V13, and a project at the Fortress. So far in the last 3 days of climbing I have sent four of them and am super psyched to continue on with the rest as my trip winds to an end before the departure date of July 30th.

After the rain finally subsided, I was so psyched to get back to working on my projects again! The first day I gave my first attempts on “Quinntesential.” Though the rock was still a bit moist and it was near dark, I got very close and am very psyched to get back on it as soon as my tips heal enough to crimp on those sharp crimps again. The next day was dedicated to my project of choice, “Sky.” This line is absolutely amazing and climbs the underside of this amazing roof on huge moves between decent holds. I did the stand start but was so close, but still unable to link it from the bottom. I so psyched to try this one again. After a rest day it was up to “Madiba,” which on the first day of attempts felt extremely hard and maybe impossible for me. But today was different; I felt really good on it and sent on the 3rd go of the day. Madiba climbs out this amazing roof through 16 powerful moves. Daniel and I thought the boulder in our minds was a link crux that pieced out consisted of a V9 followed by a V12 followed by a V9/10 final redpoint crux. After this climb, we were both psyched and headed down to “Green Mamba.” This prob was not on my list at first, but after a few tries quickly hopped aboard. The conditions were not so prime the first day and I came back the next day and quickly finished it off in 2 goes.

Yet again another rest day which consisted of driving Sarah to Cape Town to catch her flight back to the US. It was a nice day away from the dirt roads and simple life of the rocklands, but as quickly as I was glad to get away, the boulders were calling me back for another day of climbing. I was psyched for “Quinntesential” but at the last second decided to go up to Road Crew for my first attempt on “Amandla” and “The Power of One.” “Power” went quickly, both Daniel and I sent it with quite differing beta. It was really cool to solve a boulder problem using the exact same handholds but completely different feet due to the differences in our styles. After sending this and realizing colder afternoon temps were coming in we quickly headed over to “Amandla.” At first I thought it looked sooo hard! I tried the top first; after a few falls off the top bit I had it pretty figured out, but knew the bottom was the crux. I tried the bottom bit a few tries and figures out some pretty good beta for myself. With a nice 10 minute rest I felt strong, stuck the crux move and climbed it to the top! What a great feeling it was to climb the most impressive and possibly the hardest line in the Rocklands in less than 2 hours on my first day of attempts. I will admit, the climb is my style to perfection and crimps up a 45 are what I love to climb on I may be a little biased in saying it was one of the most amazing climbs I have ever done. Big Up Productions was there to catch the send on film and will surely be a part of the Real Rock Tour this upcoming Fall. Daniel did most of the moves but was unable to do the crux bit. I am not sure on the grade at the moment, other than realllly really hard. I hope that he will send in the upcoming two weeks and we can talk about a consensus of how hard we think it is. But, for now I will say it is at least V14 and in my eyes a harder version of “The Swarm” in Bishop.

After topping it out I realized I had a quite heinous split on my left pointer finger, so the next few days will be used to heal it up in an attempt to finish the last four climbs I want to do on my list before leaving this amazing place on July 30th. All I can say is that there is a 100 percent chance that I am coming back next year! This place is just beyond comprehension and there will never be a shortage of hard amazing climbs to be done here.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008


It seems as if we may be able to climb tomorrow!!! Lately we have just been trying to pass the time, a few of us drove to Cape Town to enjoy a day of indoor climbing and to see the scenery of cape town in the pouring rain.

The climbing gym was fun! It was nice to climb after having not had for 3-4 days :(. the next day we went to the aquarium in cape town which was awesome! We walked through the whole place and saw some amazing creatures from under the sea. In about ten days i have to drop of my girl friend, Sarah off at the airport and me, tommy, and a few others are hoping to go cage diving with the great whites if all falls into place! Stay tuned for more info on that...

Anyway, we are now headed back to the rocklands to hopefully climb tomorrow.

UPDATE: we got to climb three amazing days! it has been so much fun and some amazing boulders got sent! I finally did "ray of light!" and did a joint fa with daniel "el corazon." hopefully the weather will remain good for the rest of the trip!!! Tomorrow will be a rest day for me and Sarah will be attempting her project, "Caroline." good luck to her on that!!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

and even more rain...

yep it sucks. I feel as if my trip is getting completely shorted due to the lack of climbing we have been able to get done. Today marks the 6th straight day of rain in a row unfortunately. The forecast says that it will stop in 2 days and hopefully we will get to climb again soon.

As of now, i have a bunch of projects that i am really psyched on! especially this one roof called "madiba." it is a longer problem going out a huge roof about 9 feet off the ground. The boulder is approximately 15 moves and never eases up until you are topping out the boulder!

Hopefully more updates soon that actually relate to climbing... but until then we will continue to watch the rain fall.