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Sunday, March 30, 2008

quick update

So, there was no send and my barely healed tip busted open again. But the tries I did get to give it were some of my best yet! I am back in Boulder now and planning a trip back for a long weekend in 3 weeks to try and finish it up! I can't wait! I will post some video of my best attempts in the upcoming days once I get the footage. Keep posted!

Below I have posted the video of one of my closer attempts on the sit start. I think I fell on this move at least 20 times from the bottom, followed by video of me sticking the move in isolation. I can't wait to get back to this thing!!!

Sorry about the crappy quality.

Friday, March 28, 2008

1 day left...

the past five days since i split my tip i have just been resting in the near impossible hope that my finger will heal for one more good try on rastaman sit. As tomorrow is my last day i'm going to attempt one last time before driving back to reno. Though my finger is not healed i hope it will be enough to be able to bear the pain and maybe sending the amazing project! Hopefully a miracle and some good news to come tomorrow after climbing! wish me luck!

Monday, March 24, 2008


got unlucky today and unfortunately got a very bad split on my right pointer finger while trying rastaman sit. It has been going very well other than that! i felt extremely close today with many tries that could have been the one but just couldnt hold on to the very hard swing at the end. Hopefully my tip will heal before i have to leave.

On a side note: Happy Birthday Dad!

Friday, March 21, 2008

Bishop Day 1

I made into Bishop last night to start my spring break trip. I will be here until next Saturday and have one problem on mind, the rasta man vibration sit start project. The stand was put up a few years back by justin roth and originally graded v12. the full line definitely still needs to be done though. I began working it last year and knew it was possible. today was the first day back on it. I surprisingly felt really strong on it, doing all of the bottom moves in a short period of time. It is quite hot here in bishop now and after a short morning session it became fully aware that trying it more would just result in a lot of skin loss. I then climbed the backside of the boulder and rapped into the top section of the boulder to see how the top was before going for it from the bottom. It is ridiculously scary! I had assumed it would be over after doing the bottom crux, but i was unfortunately very wrong! the top is involved and quite difficult! Pulling the lip is an interesting crux that i would say is at least v8 or 9. then a jug to rest on and then a very very technical crux to get into the easier climbing of the top of evilution. this part is very scary because the feet are bad and the hand holds are small and you are at least 25 feet off the ground at this point. I practiced the moves a lot and feel confident now to go forward and try for the send in the upcoming days of my trip, but still am very scared of having to do all of that top without a top rope attached to me. Here are some pictures from the day of me on the top of the line working it out.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Midnight Express and Bishop

The weeks seem like days here in Boulder. It just seems like yesterday I was coming home from Hueco and starting the new semester of school. Now it is practically spring break and I cant wait for another 10 day trip to Bishop! This year the main focus will be the Rasta Man Vibration Sit Start Project. It has definitely been on my mind for the past year and cant wait to begin trying it again with some more serious effort.

Lately I have been just climbing around Boulder and have been trying to heal my right middle toe. I had to get stitches in it because i had a cist and the doctor had to cut it out. It kinda sucked not being able to wear a shoe for about 2.5 weeks but just in the past week or so i have been able to wear both climbing shoes again! As soon as I found out i could wear both shoes i returned to my short term project of Midnight Express. The day I sent (saturday) was absolutely perfect. The weather was cold (31 feels like 9 said for Nederland with a good steady wind)! PERFECT! cold but warm enough to not be frozen the whole time. After warming up i felt confident and ready to go. My first attempt was really good and i knew that today could be that day! After several bad attempts, i finally stuck the under-cling perfectly and climbed it to the top without any hesitation! It felt good, it had been a while since i had done something hard that i was proud of.

photo A. Mann: The final overwhelming moves of the infamous Midnight Express

Psyched! Bishop 2 days!