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Sunday, May 25, 2008

2 weeks away

So as the world cup quickly approaches, I am becoming more and more nervous each passing day. I am excited to compete in the comp with a ton of extremely strong competitors from all over the world. I took a look at the structure of the wall yesterday on the ifsc website and it looks like a great venue for a competition of this stature! I am also pleased to see that there is a lot more walls that are not super super steep. I have always been a fan of the slightly to a bit over hanging walls when competing in comps. But i also feel that these angles will be where the Europeans will succeed as well.

Other than continuing my training for the world cup i have been working on two forms of art, my painting and also shaping holds for Nicros. It is definitely really hard working on a 3-dimensional plane! i have definitely never tried any type of sculpture but have been having a lot of fun working out ideas for holds in this crazy foam material. I have found the best technique is to use my finger like sand paper, though it is a slow process it allows me to work out a lot of details as i shape the hold. Below are two of more recent paintings:

Other than that not too much has been going on. It has been very hot in Boulder and climbing outside unless at the high altitude areas which have tons of snow, is still very difficult. I can't wait for South Africa in just over 2 weeks, the list of boulder problems i want to do during my time there is ever increasing! I hope we get some phenomenal weather while I'm down there!

Sunday, May 11, 2008


Black wallstreet for life!

Yesterday i flew back to NJ to visit my family for a week before heading back to CO to continue my training for the world cup and South Africa. But before i went home i had some business to take care of up at the park! After 3 days of work and one extremely hard move later, i sent the FA of Mendax, 8B. This problem is on the Veritas Boulder in RMNP and starts on the same starting holds as low left veritas but rather than climbing right, it climbs directly left and up to a heinous right hand pich to a big move to a not so good sloper at the lip. I sent the line just before i had to leave the other day and am psyched to have finished it up! Keep a look out for video from the one and only Sneeldoggggg aka Scott Neel

Now all i've got to do is wait for a day that is not hot in boulder to go back and attempt Suspension of Disbelief. I truly think this boulder hates me! Every time i go back there, there is just something wrong (its snowing, its hailing, its raining, its deathly hot, theres no wind, the ticks are taking over, etc.) But none the less i have decided this isn't going to stop me from trying to send in the next few weeks i have left in CO!!!

(A visual representation of the death that has become Eldo on previous attempts to send!)

Last but not least i got my tickets to europe for the fall the other day!!! I fly into Zurich on September 1st and depart on December 12th!!! sooooooo psyched!!!

More news to come soon!