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Tuesday, September 29, 2009

prime time to shine

Yesterday i finally got back to "Prime time to shine" in clear creek canyon having been shut down by rain multiple times. but today was perfect. Jeff and I headed out there earlyy in the PM, hooked up this real nice 12c and then headed over to the primo wall. i fell twice at the top of the second crux, negative. i rested a bit did some belaying and third go of the day hooked it up! it felt good, didnt get pumped and was psyched on the send. here are some pics of the send by Gabor.

Friday, September 25, 2009

spot comp this weekend

This weekend is going to kick off the first bouldering comp of the season for me! I am very psyched to be competing at the "Gun Show" at the Spot this weekend! It is going to be a relatively local sized come but i am looking forward to seeing a bunch of friends and climbing on the new climbs that the spot setters throw up.

Besides that I have got outside on sunday and FINALLY finished up top notch! This climb took me forever to figure out a good sequence since I was a good bit taller than the other 3 people who had previously sent the line. I have video of the send and will edit it up and post that as soon as its all finished.

I have not been able to make it back to prime time to shine yet because the last few days have been rainy and of course wet. The weather looks to be getting a lot better and i think after the comp on monday ill be making a quick trip up there in hopes of sending! Have a great weekend all!

Friday, September 18, 2009

team shoe

Check out the new team shoe by five ten! I was a huge part of the design team for this shoe and am psyched to have been. I really think it is an amazing shoe and i really cant wait to hear what everyone has to say about the shoe!!!

besides that I am shooting a movie with elephant magazine and prana right now about both my art and climbing in conjunction with one another. I will post up a link once it has been completed.

Besides that I am headed to the park on Sunday and back to Clear Creek on Weds for another attempt on prime time to shine. I got reallyyyy close last week and am psyched to get back on it with some cooler temps and not as flash pumped.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Is up!!!! check it out!!! (Scott Neel) hooked it up huge and made me an amazing website!

Let me know what you think and if there are any problems with the site let me know! Hope everyone like it!

we are having some technical difficulties with the site right now. it is best viewed in safari or firefox for the time being.

new DPM Video

check out my new video on! couple of problems from my summer trip to the Northwest and Canada!

Monday, September 14, 2009

good weather

with a bit of rain the other day it seems as if fall has arrived in Boulder! The weather today is looking great and i am heading back to the primo wall in hopes of doing the link up, "prime time to shine." I am really psyched and only have one class today until 2:30 and then it is off to the wall! PSYCHED!

two older pictures i found the other day. Nagual Hueco, Photo: Olson and Ride the lightning Squamish, Photo: Joel Robinson

Saturday, September 12, 2009

prime evil

yesterday the temps felt a bit cooler and i was psyched on heading out to prime evil since my attempt at getting out there last week was totally shut down. Alex and I drove out there in the mid afternoon, warmed up for a bit at the wall of the 90's, and then made the Tyrolean crossing to the Primo wall.

I managed to do the climb second go yesterday and was psyched! I feel like my rope training is paying off and I was psyched to be at the top not pumped and ready to take a look at the extension of the route "prime time to shine" which links the crux of prime evil 8b+ and shine 8b+ to make a nice 60 foot 8c. I started trying the link section and then the crux of shine. The link and crux add amazing moves but unfortunately with it getting dark so early in the canyon it made it impossible to give the climb an actual effort. then we opted out of doing the normal way of returning, ie. taking the tyrolean back and fjord the river to cut the walking distance. It definitely brought back some Oregon Trail memories and we were glad to have crossed the river and not picked up small pox along the way.

I am hoping to get back there soon with hopefully some video to post up as well! have a great weekend everyone!

Monday, September 7, 2009

still too hot

kevin, alex, and myself woke up early this am for an attempt to send Primeval. however the temps at 9 am were above 80 degrees and it was not getting any cooler. we ate breakfast at the village cafe and gave up quite quickly after breakfast feeling full and not psyched to venture out into the death heat. hopefully it will cool down in the next couple weeks!

one of my favs from my show last fri!

Sunday, September 6, 2009


the art show came and went and it was a great learning experience and a huge success for myself! I would like to give a huge thanks to everyone that showed up and supported me during the evening of the fourth. I will try and have pictures up soon from the evening.

Tomorrow is Labor day and I am psyched to have a day off from school! I am heading to clear creek in hopes of some cooler temps and a hopeful send of "Primeval" 5.14a on the Primo wall. I have tried the route a bit before but have never managed to clip the chains from the bottom. Hopefully tomorrow will be different! I am psyched for the Fall here in Boulder. There are a few climbs I really need to finish before I finish college and leave the state for a long time. The Fall list is as follows (not all are front range but this is what i would like to get done before the New Year):

Primeval 5.14a, CCC
Dreamcatcher 5.14d/15a?, Squamish
Iron Monkey, 5.14 (trad) Eldo

Top Notch, V13 RMNP
Poudre Roof Proj, V15? Poudre Canyon
Suspension of disbelief, V14, Eldo
fingerhut direct, v13/14 joe's
masterpiece, v13, joe's
wood grain grippin, v14 arkansas
lost in the hood, v14, arkansas
chuck up the deuce, v13, arkansas
king lion, v12, arkansas
antihero, v13, arkansas

very psyched! i have been training a heck of a lot lately and feel good! hopefully this fall will lend itself to good temps and hopefully i can send each of these lines i have set my eyes on!

best of luck to everyone on their fall projects!