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Saturday, September 12, 2009

prime evil

yesterday the temps felt a bit cooler and i was psyched on heading out to prime evil since my attempt at getting out there last week was totally shut down. Alex and I drove out there in the mid afternoon, warmed up for a bit at the wall of the 90's, and then made the Tyrolean crossing to the Primo wall.

I managed to do the climb second go yesterday and was psyched! I feel like my rope training is paying off and I was psyched to be at the top not pumped and ready to take a look at the extension of the route "prime time to shine" which links the crux of prime evil 8b+ and shine 8b+ to make a nice 60 foot 8c. I started trying the link section and then the crux of shine. The link and crux add amazing moves but unfortunately with it getting dark so early in the canyon it made it impossible to give the climb an actual effort. then we opted out of doing the normal way of returning, ie. taking the tyrolean back and fjord the river to cut the walking distance. It definitely brought back some Oregon Trail memories and we were glad to have crossed the river and not picked up small pox along the way.

I am hoping to get back there soon with hopefully some video to post up as well! have a great weekend everyone!

1 comment:

wade said...

Paul I got Master Fucking beta for Prime Time to Shine, different variations of doing the cruxes, let me know if you want some beta. Facebook me or something.