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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

the newness

not sure what to name it yet...

Monday, June 25, 2007

Great Barrington

This past weekend I made a quick visit to the town of Great Barrington in Western Massachusetts. The town is home to some of the best Gneiss bouldering in the entire country, and has one of the coolest boulders I have ever seen, the Speed Boulder. This boulder has such classics as "Something from Nothing" and "Roses and Blue Jayes." I got up there on Friday morning and went with a local friend to a new are he had found called the darkside just up the road from the main bouldering at Great Barrington. It ended up being a cool spot with some very futuristic projects. I tried one of which that looked possible but ended up getting shut down by it... if this climbe ever goes it will be realllllllly hard... 1 easy roof move followed by an insane dyno and a tough top out. To the right of this line on the same roof I saw a line on the arete that looked much easier and would be a cool FA. I call it "Just in Time," because right after sending this it began raining and we all bailed under a cave until the rain stopped.

The next day was an awesome day with amazing temps for the northeast in the summer, 67 and sunny with a little wind! Josh Lowell (, Cooper Roberts, Sarah and myself headed to the main area of Great Barrington to get some footage for Dosage Volume V. I climbed both a second ascent of this amazing problem called "Castellette SDS" and a repeat ascent of "Roses and Bluejayes" for the film. The footage came out really well and I'm super psyched to see them both all edited up. I also am super psyched to work Daniel on a Colorado Dose with Chuck Fryberger for the New Dosage Volume V as well.

I was really psyched to do "Castellette SDS" since it had been a project of mine for some time now. I began trying it right after I did "Something from Nothing" a few years back but didn't put any more work into it until right after I sent "Roses and Blue Jayes" This past November. I tried it that day and still could not do the crux lock off bump move... similar to that of "left el jorge" but much harder. But this weekend was different, I felt really strong on the lock off move and stuck in a bunch of tries but kept falling off the last wild jump move to a sloping slot. But after a bunch of tries I sent and was very pleased with the progression. I also chalked up this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes" that Dave tried a few years ago after he completed "Roses and Blue Jayes." The line is a 4 move crimp fest up a steep wall with bad feet. Dave believed it to be at least v14 if not v15. I tried the line and I would definitely have to agree! It is really HARD! I can't wait to try it again this upcoming week and this November over my Thanksgiving Break.

Now I'm back at my house in NJ. Daniel flies in tomorrow and we are again off to Great Barrington. I'm really psyched to get him on the lines of the Speed boulder as well as this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes." The weather as of now is not looking to prime but hopefully it will cool off!

I just finished a new painting the other day. I need to upload the pictures to my computer and I should be posting them this evening. OHHH and I would like to say amazing effort to Daniel on the FA of "Jade" in RMNP. I can't wait to try the boulder more this fall!

Wednesday, June 13, 2007


I'm back home now. New Jersey. It's been hot and humid and I don't think I have seen a day under 95 since I have been home. My days have been filled with a new painting I am working on, hanging with my family and friends, and training very hard for the upcoming comps along with upcoming perfect Autumn in Colorado. I was going through some pictures the other day and since seeing this picture:

The Green 45 Project. This boulder is a dream of mine and really hope that all my training over the years can come together so that I can send this amazing boulder problem this Fall. I Can't stop thinking about it... and the cold temps of September in RMNP cannot come soon enough. This boulder, when completed, I think will be the hardest in the country if not the entire world. It stands at a level of its own and is sitting right now in Middle Chaos Canyon waiting for someone to come along and nab the much sought after first ascent.

Also, congrats out to a few people on some recent sends; Ty and Daniel on their recent 1st and 2nd ascents of the "Power of 10" RMNP, Sarah Orens on "Even Lovely" Gunks, Laura Griffiths on "Marble Direct" RMNP, and Max Zolothukin on "The Gobot" and "The Kind Traverse" in RMNP. Very impressive sends by all!!!

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Picture Update

Here is the Japan picture update...


A very crowded Bus Station

They drive some crazy cars in Japan

Shibara, The roof with Hydra and all of Dai's hard link-ups

Me on a problem I forgot the name of

Me on "Sen"

Climbing in the Five Ten Cup at PUMP II Climbing Gym

Monday, June 11, 2007


I am back in NJ now for a few weeks. The last few weeks have been pretty hectic but a lot of fun. I got back from Japan and flew to Denver where I competed in the Vail Teva Mountain Games. It went well and I got second to Daniel. After the comp I went with Tim Kemple and Chris Lindner to Joe's Valley to shoot the cover of the next Urban Climber! The Picture is sooooooooooooo rad! so def check that out when it comes out in a month.

After that I went to Salt Lake for a few days hung out with Tim and climbed a bit in the heat. I flew home a few days ago and went to the Gunks this weekend. It was really really hot. But none-the-less got to get some climbing in and sent some really fun lines. My camera was stolen and now I am lacking a camera. I hope to get another soon. Sorry for the lack of photos recently... but I promise they will be up shortly and worth the wait!!!

The rest of this month will be spent training for the ASCI Comp in western Maryland at the end of the month. July I am planning on leaving New Jersey and heading to either Southern California for some high altitude bouldering or to South Africa if I can manage to get everything sorted out in the next week or so. I'm realllllly hoping South Africa comes together as that trip would be amazing!