Film Night at Movement

Heading to Squamish today! wish me good weather!

prime time to shine

Yesterday i finally got back to "Prime time to shine" in clear creek canyon having been shut down by rain multiple times. but today was perfect. Jeff and I headed out there earlyy in the PM, hooked up this real nice 12c and then headed over to the primo wall. i fell twice at the top of the second crux, negative. i rested a bit did some belaying and third go of the day hooked it up! it felt good, didnt get pumped and was psyched on the send. here are some pics of the send by Gabor.

spot comp this weekend

This weekend is going to kick off the first bouldering comp of the season for me! I am very psyched to be competing at the "Gun Show" at the Spot this weekend! It is going to be a relatively local sized come but i am looking forward to seeing a bunch of friends and climbing on the new climbs that the spot setters throw up.

Besides that I have got outside on sunday and FINALLY finished up top notch! This climb took me forever to figure out a good sequence since I was a good bit taller than the other 3 people who had previously sent the line. I have video of the send and will edit it up and post that as soon as its all finished.

I have not been able to make it back to prime time to shine yet because the last few days have been rainy and of course wet. The weather looks to be getting a lot better and i think after the comp on monday ill be making a quick trip up there in hopes of sending! Have a great weekend all!

team shoe

Check out the new team shoe by five ten! I was a huge part of the design team for this shoe and am psyched to have been. I really think it is an amazing shoe and i really cant wait to hear what everyone has to say about the shoe!!!



besides that I am shooting a movie with elephant magazine and prana right now about both my art and climbing in conjunction with one another. I will post up a link once it has been completed.



Besides that I am headed to the park on Sunday and back to Clear Creek on Weds for another attempt on prime time to shine. I got reallyyyy close last week and am psyched to get back on it with some cooler temps and not as flash pumped.

www.p-rob.com

www.p-rob.com

Is up!!!! check it out!!! (Scott Neel) hooked it up huge and made me an amazing website!

Let me know what you think and if there are any problems with the site let me know! Hope everyone like it!

we are having some technical difficulties with the site right now. it is best viewed in safari or firefox for the time being.

new DPM Video

check out my new video on deadpointmag.com! couple of problems from my summer trip to the Northwest and Canada!

good weather

with a bit of rain the other day it seems as if fall has arrived in Boulder! The weather today is looking great and i am heading back to the primo wall in hopes of doing the link up, "prime time to shine." I am really psyched and only have one class today until 2:30 and then it is off to the wall! PSYCHED!

two older pictures i found the other day. Nagual Hueco, Photo: Olson and Ride the lightning Squamish, Photo: Joel Robinson

prime evil

yesterday the temps felt a bit cooler and i was psyched on heading out to prime evil since my attempt at getting out there last week was totally shut down. Alex and I drove out there in the mid afternoon, warmed up for a bit at the wall of the 90's, and then made the Tyrolean crossing to the Primo wall.

I managed to do the climb second go yesterday and was psyched! I feel like my rope training is paying off and I was psyched to be at the top not pumped and ready to take a look at the extension of the route "prime time to shine" which links the crux of prime evil 8b+ and shine 8b+ to make a nice 60 foot 8c. I started trying the link section and then the crux of shine. The link and crux add amazing moves but unfortunately with it getting dark so early in the canyon it made it impossible to give the climb an actual effort. then we opted out of doing the normal way of returning, ie. taking the tyrolean back and fjord the river to cut the walking distance. It definitely brought back some Oregon Trail memories and we were glad to have crossed the river and not picked up small pox along the way.

I am hoping to get back there soon with hopefully some video to post up as well! have a great weekend everyone!

still too hot

kevin, alex, and myself woke up early this am for an attempt to send Primeval. however the temps at 9 am were above 80 degrees and it was not getting any cooler. we ate breakfast at the village cafe and gave up quite quickly after breakfast feeling full and not psyched to venture out into the death heat. hopefully it will cool down in the next couple weeks!


one of my favs from my show last fri!

fall

the art show came and went and it was a great learning experience and a huge success for myself! I would like to give a huge thanks to everyone that showed up and supported me during the evening of the fourth. I will try and have pictures up soon from the evening.

Tomorrow is Labor day and I am psyched to have a day off from school! I am heading to clear creek in hopes of some cooler temps and a hopeful send of "Primeval" 5.14a on the Primo wall. I have tried the route a bit before but have never managed to clip the chains from the bottom. Hopefully tomorrow will be different! I am psyched for the Fall here in Boulder. There are a few climbs I really need to finish before I finish college and leave the state for a long time. The Fall list is as follows (not all are front range but this is what i would like to get done before the New Year):

Routes:
Primeval 5.14a, CCC
Dreamcatcher 5.14d/15a?, Squamish
Iron Monkey, 5.14 (trad) Eldo

Boulders:
Top Notch, V13 RMNP
Poudre Roof Proj, V15? Poudre Canyon
Suspension of disbelief, V14, Eldo
fingerhut direct, v13/14 joe's
masterpiece, v13, joe's
wood grain grippin, v14 arkansas
lost in the hood, v14, arkansas
chuck up the deuce, v13, arkansas
king lion, v12, arkansas
antihero, v13, arkansas

very psyched! i have been training a heck of a lot lately and feel good! hopefully this fall will lend itself to good temps and hopefully i can send each of these lines i have set my eyes on!

best of luck to everyone on their fall projects!

busy is an understatement

the past week or so has been quite busy with my upcoming art show this Friday at the Prana Store in Boulder, CO. I have been getting some final paintings completed to show at the gallery opening on the fourth.

Besides that I got up to the park this weekend for a day on my birthday and was able to send blood money in a few goes. i had tried the line a year before as night was setting in and only got a few good burns before it got completely dark up there. but with the good late august conditions this year and lots of nice sunlight, i managed the send and was psyched to be done one more boulder i had never completed before in the park. There are only a few left and i hope to finish them off before the snow comes.

Only 4 more weeks until i return to squamish in hopes of sending dreamcatcher!!

movement

I am now back in Boulder and have begun the training necessary for my return to Squamish this Fall as well as the many climbs in Colorado that I would like to finish this Fall Semester. Alex and I both bought memberships and have quickly fallen in love. The gym is spectacular and it is just the right place to train really really hard! I have been working my endurance a lot and feel that each passing day i am getting a bit stronger. I still will continue to keep faithful to training at CATS as well since everyone knows this place will get anyone in the best bouldering shape of their life if they put their hours in.

I would like to give huge props to Mike Moelter and Anne-Worley Moelter for putting together one of the best climbing gyms in the country if not the world. It is an amazing facility and well worth checking out if you make your way through Boulder anytime.

http://movementboulder.com/

heading home

I am leaving squamish empty handed this time. I did manage the ascent of a few nice boulders however was unable to nab the second ascent of dreamcatcher due to the extreme heat that as the locals say, "has not been this bad since 1880." Spirits are high though as alex and i make our trek back to Boulder. I will be back in October with lots of endurance and lots of psyche in hopes of coming back and sending! It is going to be a short trip because of school but i am already so excited to return to the magical forest. I am in love with the climb and know i will think about it everyday until i return!

I start school on the 24th and have an art show on the 3rd which i have a great deal of work to prepare for. But most importantly i have projects in colorado to get back for and lots of training to be done! I am psyched and hopefully will be able to finish up some old lines and open some new ones this upcoming Fall!

dreamcatcher

is hard! The weather has been less than perfect but i have been attempting it anyway. The past week Alex has spent countless hours on the belay as i work out the moves and complain about how hot it is. I have been able to do some really nice links and feel that in cooler temps it could for sure be possible. I am going to continue to try the moves and get the climb all sussed out. Since the temps do not look as if they are not going to be under 90 degrees Fahrenheit, which makes climbing such a hard route quite difficult. I think i am going to try and make a trip back here for a long weekend sometime this fall to go for a redpoint attempt. Hopefully it will get cooler and i can try for it because today i finally figured out the slab section which was the last section of moves i need to do!!!










Photos: Joel Robinson

Squamish and Progression

I have finally made it to Squamish! Alex and I drove from Portland the other day and are now in Squamish. The drive was long but well worth it. We got to climb yesterday for the first day. It was a bit on the warm side. Hopefully it will cool down shortly. Alex got an amazing flash set up for her new camera and her newest photos are looking amazing! I will post some up as soon as we get them on the computer. Hopefully it will cool down a bit and i can begin to try some difficult rock climbs!

Besides getting to Squamish, we had an awesome time at the Summer OR. The comp was fun, though i did not feel 100 percent. It was great to catch up with a lot of friends and meet some new ones. Besides the comp and the show was the first screening of a good portion of the new film by Josh lowell, (www.bigupproductions.com) Progression. The film looks like it is going to be amazing when finished! At the OR show, they showed segments on Tommy Caldwell in Yosemite, Chris Sharma on Jumbo Love, and Kevin Jorgeson on his new highballs in Bishop. All of it was super inspiring and the Reel Rock Tour in September should be quite a fun show to end across the country! Daniel and I filmed for Progression in South Africa last summer and it looks like Josh will be using this footage in the Progression DVD.

Anyway, the week was great and now i am in on of the most beautiful places in North America. stay tuned for pictures!

Portland

today we are leaving Humboldt county on our way to Portland to stay at my aunts house before departing for SLC. The weather has been amazing and we have one final day of climbing here before we make the trek up to Portland. It will be one day in Portland before we leave for the Outdoor Retail Show in Salt Lake. It will be nice to fly there since we have been driving quite a bit the last couple of weeks.

I plan on competing in the comp and hope that my lack of indoor climbing won't shut me down to badly. after the comp it is on our way again to Squamish, the main destination of our trip!

Humboldt

After a ton of driving Alex and I have finally made it to Humboldt! The weather is beautiful and the bouldering on the beach is spectacular! It feels nice to finally be in a place where it is not over 100 degrees outside! Waking up every morning to a cool breeze and amazing boulders is pretty perfect!

From here it is off to the tradeshow and then an extended period of time in Squamish where I cant wait to try the singularity and dream catcher!

More updates to come!

the big worm and area b

Lately I have been heading up to Evans in an attempt to finish up the last couple of lines in area A and also find some new lines in Area B.

I made a quick repeat of Dave's "Big Worm" last week. The line is all encompassing and about 20 or so moves out a huge roof. The line climbs quite well and I was very pleased to start off the alpine season with a fast send of this line.

Last week I explored area B a bit and with the help of a picture from Carlo, found a great project right in the beginning of B. Though a jug broke off in the middle making the line quite a bit harder, i still believe that the line will in fact go and may be one of the harder lines in all of Evans. Hopefully within the next few weeks i will have a better understanding of how hard this line may actually be.

Here are some pics taken by Alex Kahn.

a dedication to my hero

It has been a little while since I have updated my blog and i just have not really been able to think of words to put down. I flew back from NJ on Sunday evening to a week of relaxed climbing before the World Cup in Vail, CO. Prior to my departure my dad was admitted into the hospital due to complications from his non-Hodgkin's lymphoma. He had been fighting this for quite a few years and as i left i just was under the assumption he was going to get better and be back in no time to his good ol' self. The week went by and by Friday I had to try my best to turn all of my attention to concentrating on doing my best in the competition as i know that what he would have wanted me to do. I barely made it to semi finals and knew that i would have my work cut out for me on Saturday. Fortunately Saturday morning i climbed well and qualified for finals in 1st place. During the final round i had a hard time keeping my concentration and fell quite a bunch which slipped me back to 4th place where i finished the comp.

As soon as i was done competition i spoke with my mom who told me it was necessary to make my way home. I booked a flight for early the next morning. I unfortunately did not make it home in time and lost my absolute best friend that Sunday morning.

I wanted to write a blog in his dedication as he is the one who was always on top of me to make sure i updated. Since he was back in NJ and i was traveling the world this as well as our daily phone conversations was his way of seeing all the amazing things that i was up to. He definitely was my number one fan since i first put on a pair of climbing shoes at the young age of 11. He was by far the strongest person i have ever met and fought a really hard fight for many years. He has and always will be the person in life that i look up to most of all. I will definitely cherish the memories we have had together and push forward as i know he would want me to.

Finals

I am back in Boulder after a long flight home... Philadelphia's airport has a tendency to get you into the plane and have you sit in a line of about 20 planes before taking off. Anyway, the comp went well on Saturday night and fortunately i came out on top! The field was extremely strong and walking into iso i knew that it could have been anyone to take down the Gravity Brawl this year. I felt as if i climbed smart in finals and kept my head together.

This week is the final push before the World Cup this upcoming weekend! I am glad to have won the comp this last weekend giving me a lot of confidence for the main event this weekend. I am going to go climbing at Evans tomorrow in hopes to get the lungs ready for the high elevation that Vail will offer this weekend. Besides that it is back to summer school for me Modern Art 2 begins today.

I have been painting a ton and am about to finish off a new piece soon. I will post it up as soon as i complete it. Also the beginings of a new website are in effect, p-rob.com coming soon, hopefully!!!

qualis

day one of the mammut bouldering championships are over. I finished all of the climbs on day one and am going into finals right behind daniel. him and i were the only two to finish all of the boulders today in the mens category. The problems today were a bit technical and hopefully will be a great deal harder tomorrow.

Tomorrow evening is finals and i am looking forward to it! My little brother is back climbing again and he is going to be competing again in his first competition tomorrow and i am very psyched for him! He has only been climbing for a few months and killing it already! i looking forward to seeing how he does tomorrow.

After the comp it is back to Boulder and one last week of climbing before the main event, the vail world cup. I am so excited for the comp and am getting more and more nervous as each day passes. More news tomorrow!



qualifiers 4

NJ Bound

I am about to head to the airport to go to NJ to compete in the mammut bouldering championship at the NJ Rock Gym. It is always fun going home and competing against good friends and being on my "home turf." Its been quite sometime since i have been home. last time home i was just learning to walk again so it will be very nice to go home and be in good shape again and ready to compete! I feel ready and am super excited to get the weekend underway!

Last weekend totally sucked. Alex and i made the trek to Joe's to find it raining and it never stopped. Then we drove to Salt lake where it continued to rain and on monday morning we drove all the way bac to boulder. I climbed on wet rock for 30 minutes and in the gym for 4 hours. oh well sometimes the weekend just doesnt pan out to all it was meant to be.

off to NJ wish me luck!

Summer

Summer has officially begun. My finals went well and i am now taking a few credits this summer in an attempt to reach my final goal of graduation. The weather down in Boulder is heating up a lot and it seems like in no time the bouldering up in the park and Evans will be in its prime! i have a bunch of lines that i am super psyched on and am hoping to find some amazing FA's!

This upcoming weekend i am headed to Joe's Valley for a long weekend of bouldering with Alex. It looks like their are a lot of amazing boulders that have been put up recently and I am psyched to get on! The new line masterpiece put up by Litz a few months ago looks to be amazing and i think i am going to be putting that line at the top of my list!

Besides that i have been working very hard on getting ready for the world cup in a couple of weeks! It is coming up super soon and i am getting very excited! it looks like there will be a lot of strong competitors there! i will get some pictures this weekend in Joe's and post when i return!

1 more day

today is the last day of the spring semester and i am taking a short break from my studying to write this blog post. the past few weeks have been a complete whirl wind for me. i have been studying, finishing final projects, and above all training for the upcoming world cup event in Vail!

Today marks the last day of the semester and i am psyched. after this i will only have one class in the mornings during the week for summer school and then it will be off to the park, evans, or wherever to find amazing new boulders to be climbed in Colorado. very psyched!

with that i am back to studying! wish me luck as sociology is quite the killer and i am studying my brains out in an attempt to pull in a B. ahhhhhhh.

Back In Boulder

The past few weeks have been quite the whirl wind for me. The end of the semester has come around and school has become super hectic! I am trying to get my all of my art projects done as well as prepare for my final exams and write papers.

I got back from a short trip to Kauai with my family last week which was to say the least, amazing! I totally would be living there right now if i did not have climbing in my life. the lifestyle is amazing and i cant wait to go back, hopefully someday soon!

Now that i am back in Boulder, my training for the world cup has truly begun! I am building a really strong endurance base this year by doing lots of routes at the BRC a couple of days a week with my girlfriend. The other days i have been spending climbing at CATS training really hard boulder problems. As the weeks go by i think i am going to start spending more time at CATS not only training hard boulders but also doing intense 40 move power endurance problems.

I feel that last year, my endurance could have been a bit better before the comp so this year i am making sure to be a bit more prepared. I didnt rope climb at all before the comp and i hope to see positive results from getting on a rope 6-8 weeks prior to the competition.

Other than that, i made a quick evening session up to the flatirons with Robyn Erbesfield's son Shawn. He just turned 11 the other day and totally crushed "The Turning Point" on his 3rd day of effort! Very impressive to say the least. I climbed this really nice 8a that i did not know the name of. It felt nice to be outside again. The weather here in Boulder has heated up a great deal and i am hoping the sun stays but the temps will get a bit cooler in the upcoming weeks. There are a few things around here i would like to get on before the summer heat rolls in and it is up to the park and evans to hide from the heat back down in boulder.

Also, a nice video of my ascent of "Psychedelic" on the main page of Dead Point Magazine if anyone is interested!


yes it is hung crooked i know (i didnt have a ruler at the time).