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Tuesday, February 17, 2009

a long 4 months

Sorry for the lack of updates but here is a big one to make up for the past few weeks. My healing has been going great and I have decided to get the screw taken out as soon as I can find a spare minute in my schedule to do so! It has officially been 4 months since I injured myself. Other than that, my limp is pretty much gone, I am able to begin falling on my left foot again as long as it is a controlled fall, and the strength in my leg seems to be growing every single day!

ABS Nationals: Besides being sick (with either the plague or the flu, I have yet to determine) and extremely nervous, I am very happy with my performance. It helps knowing that people are truly cheering you on but it does not take away from the anxiety of wanting to win or at least to perform at your best. As I learned in a SLC comp, it does not matter how strong you are (or how much support you get from the crowd) if you do not read the problem correctly, it is a VERY LONG 5 minutes. I believe that my strength is 100% back, but I still need more time for my overall balance and strength in my leg to fully return. I have been going to a physical therapist twice a week and it has helped speed up the recovery tremendously. The problem setting at ABS was outstanding. I was very impressed with everyones climbing and dedication this year at ABS Nationals. I can definitely see some young guns who will be taking top positions in comps with in the next few years. I better keep training harder than ever!
Now that nationals are done and my ankle is nearly healed, I can start climbing outdoors again. I am going to the Hueco 2009 Rock Rodeo in less than 2 weeks. I will be putting all of my effort into a project. It is the sit start to Esperanza. It starts on on Right Martini and then finishes on Esperanza. It is about 18 or so power moves on a near roof. It is going to be a real test of endurance. I am still a little tentative of a high fall so this project is going to be perfect for my short trip.
After Hueco, I am heading to Saint George and Bishop on March 18th for 11 days (spring break). My main goal is to get the second ascent of DG’s Psychedelic. My tick list below:
Psychedelic, Saint George
Breakin the Law, Saint George
The Present, Saint George
I will then head to Bishop for the rest of this trip. Once again, I plan on working the sit start to Rastaman. This will be my third spring break trying this problem. I know a lot of other climbers have also put effort into this line. I am able to do every move and have come extremely close to linking it; however, the crux move is a long reach to an almost nothing crimp off of a pinch that is barely a hold. If I send it, I honestly think it will be my hardest send to date, and it will certainly be the hardest boulder problem in Bishop; although, I am not looking forward to the top out.
After Bishop, it will be back to school to finish off the semester before yet again embarking on some amazing climbing adventures.
Deadpoint magazine has also asked me for a monthly blog. Therefore, between these two sites I hope to continue to share my experiences. Again, I am very sorry for the lack of updates, time is truly flying! Count on more updates and photos soon!


Lu said...

nice update, paul. glad to see the injury is healing up nicely and props for a job well done at ABS-lu

Anonymous said...

Great job at the comp - I really enjoyed getting to watch all the competitors close up as a judge during the qualifiers.

Unknown said...

glad to hear of your progress. Now you are talking about young guns of the future... man I'm getting

sock hands said...

nice werk in boulder, fool!

in unrelated news, the e-grips bubble wrap pinch. so simple, yet so amazing. please try to argue that it isn't the best hold in the universe. of course, this is a trick. you can't. no one can. it is certainly the best hold in the universe, and they seem to have used em all over that comp. word.

cruzhorz hueco!