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Wednesday, December 10, 2008

preliminary draft: 2009 ticklist

So here it is. Unfortunately as many of you know my trip to Europe was cut short because of an unfortunate left ankle break in the middle of my trip. But now i am on the healing course and very much looking forward to the year 2009!!! I have below the preliminary list of boulders and routes (:gasp!!!:) that i would like to climb this upcoming year. First off i am sure that i will not only add to this within the next few weeks and will post a final before the end of the year but of course will ass to the last throughout 2009 as boulders get my attention from area to area. As for plans for 2009, I will be doing a semester at CU this Spring and then one month long semester known as "maymester" before yet again embarking on a 7 month journey, with hopefully no injuries or set backs this time around! And for Spring break it seems as if it may be spent rope climbing in St. George, Utah in an attempt to go for the firs repeat of Dave Graham's "Psychedelic," and hopefully squeezed in there a few days in Bishop if my ankle is ready for outdoor bouldering by then. As you can see on the list there is no real summer destination included. I have yet to determine where exactly i would like to go this summer, though i know it will be somewhere in the southern hemisphere, maybe South Africa again or possibly even an adventure down to South America! Anyway, as always feel free to comment on my list and of course if there are any climbs i am seemingly missing, please let me know!

2009 list



Psychedelic, Saint George
Es Pontas, Mallorca (yes!!! so very psyched for Mallorca!!!)


Breakin the Law, Saint George



Rasta Man Vibration Sit (Project), buttermilks (all depending on ankle)


Satan I helvete assis, font-Long’s Vaux


From dirt grows the flowers, chironico
Brione “Bi polar Hi roller Project”, Brione



Suspension of Disbelief, Eldo


Gecko assis, font-Les Beaux Quartiers


Never Ending Story, Magic Wood (must have revenge!)
Dreamtime, Cresciano
Confessions, Cresciano


Bugeleisen, malltatal
Emotional landscapes, malltatal



Gecko, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Fata morgana assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Satan I helvete, font-Long’s Vaux


Shadowfax, Chironico
La prue, Cresciano


Golden Gate, Silvretta



Total eclipse, font-Cul De Chien
Chaos, font-Rocher Gréau
Big Dragon, font-Petit Bois
Karma, Font


Kirk windstain, cresciano
Collateral, Chironico

Rasta Man Sit, Bishop Photo: Jeff Sillcox


Victor said...


As a regular visitor of font I find it too bad that you don't want to try some of the real font classics. Looking at your list there are only gym problems and no real font classics. Why not try Dune (never repeated), Karma, Merveille, Sideways Daze, Kheops Assis, Imothep Assis (project), Golden Feet (8A+ slap), Partenaire Particulier, Partage, La Force du Destin et cetera.

Good luck recovering and good luck in font!

Paul said...

Victor, thank you very much for the additions. I have yet to go to font and am fully aware i know practically nothing when it comes to bouldering there. Some of the climbs you have mentioned i have never even heard and some i just forgot to put on my list. Karma is a DEFINITE!!! thanks again for the classics!!

Jeff Sillcox said...

Eric is going to be so disappointed that you're going to climb routes :)

I noticed that The Never Ending Story isn't on the list... don't you want revenge?

Paul said...

very true! its VERY preliminary! haha. yeaaa ill keep it a secret from eric.. shhhh!

Björn Pohl said...

Paul, what about the legendary Gaskins problems, like Walk away sd, Il pirata or Sho wdown. All 8C and all unrepeated...

Anonymous said...

Wouldn't DG's "Coup de Grace" be worth a try? It's such a rad and beautiful line!

Peter Beal said...

Don't forget the Organic problem at CATS. I am assured it is solid V13 though I peg it at CATS V11. It apparently took DW 6 tries.

Dispatcher said...

Castle Hill is great for sending projects in winter....

Anonymous said...

How about Sweden? There isn't to many hard problems but tons of projects :)

Kakis said...

How about Shiobara, Japan? There is loads of hard (and unrepeated) boulder problems outthere put up by the japanese master Dai Koyamada, such as Babel (8C/+) and Hydrangea (8C/+).

Would be also cool to see more vids shot in/hear more sends from Shiobara, Japan, or in other "not so well-known" areas.

matt said...

how about my brown V4 on the center wall out front? did you get the left foot ascent? believe it or not i worked it thge last time, left foot only and still was shut down on the last sequence that's all right foot. VR tonight?

Pellet said...

Hi Paul, good to hear you're planning another Eurotrip! I'll suggest the sitstart of Boogalagga in Chironico, first ascended by DG and given 8C. And also Gioia, a still unrepeated, crimpy and powerful 8C by Christian Core in Varazze (Italy), which stopped a few strong boulderers. I think it could suit you well.

Good luck for everything!

Topl said...

What about Frankenjura in Germany?
Many hard Routes and Boulders.
Fall is best time, if it doesn't rain all the time!
greetings and good recovering

Anonymous said...

Since you're now donning a rope on your bod, how 'bout a trip over to Akira, and lay down a 15 year controversy? Maybe not the prettiest line in the world, but possibly the most famous?

World's first route given 15b, kind of a boulder problem, unrepeated unrepeated unrepeated; Damn, sounds like yer kind of gig!

sock hands said...

paul, i'm very disappointed in this list. perhaps i need to print and send you our correspondence in which you admitted that climbing anything over v9 is for total dooshbags and that you'd focus on the range of the illuminati: v7-9

tisk tisk.

Anonymous said...

I think you will love Mallorca...
I were there this summer, and it´s just perfect!!!
You realy should go there! It would be amazing if you did the first repeat of Es Pontas. That line is even more perfect live...


Anonymous said...

SHADOWFAX?!!? SHADOWFAX?? you can go anywhere in the world and you want to go try shadowfax? PAul? WTF? you are better than that. I like Bjorns suggestions, Gaskins problems are sick, me thinks. I like the idea of repeating psychedelia. Font. hmmm... interesting to see what you think, its like a 1000 suspension of disbeliefs. anyways hope the ankle is feeling better.
also is that proj in Brione the thing that goes left off of Ganymede? did Rosta do that? whats the story there? i honestly dont know and thought maybe youve looked into it. anyways enough typing see you soon. Jemersn

Paul said...

hmmmkkkk.... so my response to akira and japan. i have seen the shiobara roof and was not impressed at all and with with both climbs i prefer to stay away from climbs that have been excessively chipped.

sockhands - i realize that we discussed not climbing over v9. i am sorry and will be making a huge change in my 09 ticklist to portray that i am a cool cat and only climb up to but not above v9.

JE- yes i realize that shadowfax is not the greatest boulder problem in the world but it made the list not because i am overly psyched to do it, but will be in the area or an extended period of time. CATS in one month!!

Pellet- yes "big paw" does look quite nice and will be added to the list. thanks!

Bjorn- If i have time in my adventures it would be quite intereting to ee the lines that Gaskins has put up. They will not be added to the list because i am trying to keep the list to places i will 100 percent be climbing at.

anonymous- i think i am most psyched for Mallorca out of anywhere!!! i am thinking to be there for the entire month of September before heading to Switzerland. said...

Im glad to see word of Gaskins is getting about, i'm a local to the area and can safely say that adding those problems on that ticklist would be like adding the K2 to the sunshine variety club's holiday itinerary. (
South Lakes isn't exactly font or Rocklands either. it does have Shadowplay and Walk Away sit though, John has spent over 3 years and 100+ sessions on some of those moves and could warm up on hubble when he was weak.
Your an amazing athlete paul and are pushing world standards on inspiring climbs worldwide.
I'd ignore the brutal strength 1-3 move niche for now and leave that to the Brit with 5mm edges on a 50 degree board, I'd recommend coming for a look one day though. and any mate of Schulte's can stop here anytime

Justin said...

I second the Partage nomination it looks absolutely choice.

Anonymous said...

i don't think akira is chipped....

Anonymous said...

Paul: Akira isn't chipped. Not the nicest looking line thought, but fine if you like roofs.

About Fontainebleau: Be sure to watch a film called Bleau before heading there if you're interested in doing hard classics. Best bouldering movie ever made. And don't forget doing easy circuits enjoing the magic forest.

Anonymous said...

The Book of Bitter Aspects, Bradely Connecticut when you are home. This thing needs to get repeated. Is it the only unrepeated V14 in America??

Paul said...

the book!!! i will add it to the list. Unsure if i will be able to get there in 09 but would love to be able to try it again! said...

Wahsup Paul !
I´m from Brazil and a fan of your climbing. I´d sugest Brazil if you think to come down to south america.
There are places such as "Cocal", "Conceição do Mato Dentro" and "Igatu", with planty of boulders and potential.
Just let me know ...
See it for your self at

Andi said...

Paul, when are you planning to visit Maltatal? Would love to see these two going down. So many years and both have just 2 ascents. Emotional is even unreapeted in the original way(2nd asentcionist was way taller and could use another sequence).
We all want to know how hard this stuff really is...

Anonymous said...

dude come to aus! there are plenty of amazing blocs from v6 to v16!

Anonymous said...

Your own opinion or is Shiobara infact excessively chipped?

indigo said...

Hey Paul,

I second Topl on the Frankenjura suggestion. Gossip is worldclass and unrepeated (except the Gaskins maybe ascent). Plus tons of hard boulder problems in all different styles. And don't let anyone tell you it's all on monos, that makes at most 10 % of the hard boulders there.

Iván Morillas said...

Hi paul! what's about Albarracín? maybe better area than Magic Wood... but yes, I'm from Spain hehehe.

Anonymous said...

your gonna try to repeat pontas!!! GO PAUL!!!! SEND THAT SHIT!

Mike said...

come to NH .... there are some INTENSE climbs up at here at rumney. including unreapeted jawsII and the bill clinton project that no one has sent yet... plus NH in the spring/fall is amazing!

Stoo said...

The Dispatcher is totally right; Flock Hill, NZ, is the place to go!

Eric said...

its too late... i already saw the "roped" stuff on your ticklist... we are so over! if you don't get better real soon, you'll be even more scared to fall off the slab on rasta man!

Franz said...

what´s about the Schwaiger problems (Zunami 8C, Pipedream 8B+/8C, Flying Circus 8B+ and many more in this grade)in Saalachtal - not far away from Malta

Anonymous said...

There is also alot of very good bouldering in Norway, especially in the southwest, the areas around Trondheim and also the magic Lofoten islands in the north. Forget about Sweden:) check out

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