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Tuesday, November 18, 2008

training training training



The healing process is going well and a few days ago was the first time that I was able to “climb” in over four weeks. I headed to my local climbing gym, Elite Climbing, to do some one footed top roping. Doing my workouts on my hang board have really paid off! I was a bit apprehensive on how I was going to climb but when I got on the wall, even though I couldn’t use my left foot, I felt pretty good. My endurance was not terrible and I felt like my finger strength was not completely gone. I think with the following weeks ahead of me I will be able to really work a lot of my weaknesses and continue to train on my hang board and go to the climbing gym to top rope before I am able to climb with both my feet again.

A few people have inquired about what I do on the hang board for my workouts. It pretty simple considering there is not too many extreme workouts you can perform on a hang board; use the picture below for reference. So here is a single workout I do (sometimes times a day). I start each workout by hanging on the upper jugs of the hang board for maybe 10-15 seconds or so. To continue the warm up I do 10 pullups on the lowest of pinches (very positive and not tweaky on the fingers at all).

Next it is one arm lock offs on the same pinches. I start with both hands on the pinches do a pull up and let go with my right hand first holding with my left arm in a locked off position for 10 seconds. I then do this with the right hand for 10 second and then again with the left for 10 seconds and then one last time with the right for 10 seconds. Without coming off I campus to the upper jugs do a pullup and bring my knees up into an L hang. I hold that for 10 seconds and then lower my arms to a 90 degree angle and hold for another 10 seconds before finally dropping off.

Next it is more L hangs. I grab the slopers directly below the jugsm do a pull up, hold an L hang for 10 seconds, bring my arms to 90 degrees hold it for ten seconds, and then repeat this 3 more times without leaving the L hang position or letting go of the slopers.

Then it is 10 pull ups on the smallest two finger pockets followed by 10 pullups on the bad pinches on either side of the board. Then I go to my other board and do 10 pullups on the smallest crimps, 10 pull ups on the biggest crimps, and 10 pullups in the middle slopers.

After this it is back to the blue board again. This is the most difficult part to explain so bear with me. I start with both hands on the good pinches down low. I campus first with my right hand to the crimp rail on the middle of the board then with my left hand to the jug at the top. Then right hand to the jug. Hang, then bring left hand to same crimp rail, campus back down into the pinches with both hands and repeat this 3 more times switching which hand goes to the crimp rail first. And then finally I do 10 pullups on the first good pinch and then campus to the jug and do 10 more pullups and by that time am pretty exhausted and can barely crutch back into the house!

If you have any questions regarding this or are completely confused feel free to comment and ill try and answer you the best I can.

I feel like the healing process is going great! My foot has more and more movement every day and I am able to start to put small amounts of weight down with my left foot while crutching around. I am hoping that my next doctor’s appointment on December 5th will end with some great news. But until then I will continue to do my workouts and top rope at the local climbing gym!

46 comments:

climbingnarc said...

Too bad you didn't get a setup like Dave Graham has in "Small Amazing Things". I bet your mom would like to see you campusing around a door frame in the kitchen talking about how your circuit was harder than Realization...

Dave said...

Where did you get that Etch Board?

Their website doesn't have it.

Paul said...

the board was given to me by a friend. i think it is their older hangboard. I bet that they still have the mold if you wanted one... shoot them an email and i bet they could make one up for you.

Nicholas said...

I'm glad you're recovering well Paul. Keep @ it. I know what it's like to be out of the climbing game for awhile...I was involved in a house fire that took me 6 mos to get back to climbing. I don't know if you're religious, if not I don't mean to offend...

My Grace is sufficient for you, for my power is made perfect in weakness
2 Corinthians 12:8

NM

Anonymous said...

Yo dood, bummer about the leg. keep training hard and use this time to improve your chess game... I'm waitin' for ya, lil' g!...
brother noah

Anonymous said...

what kind of rest period are you having between exercises?

Paul said...

the whole workout session usually take me about 25 minutes. I make sure to rest just long enough to be sure that i wont fail on any of the exercises throughout.

sock hands said...

damn. lost me after "jugs"...

to develop more core, i suggest swinging around on the crimps trying to smack your boot of doom into any poodles that may be chilling in the garage. this helped me tremendously. it also helped the poodle become more mindful of climbers so as to not get fallen upon at the blocks: DOUBLE BONUS!

Anonymous said...

Could you explain your body position in a L hang? Are you sticking you legs straight forward? Thanks!

Paul said...

so an L hang is hanging as if you were sitting in a chair is the best way to describe it.

JP Williams said...

How do you do your one-arm lockoffs? I'm curious because not only can I not do one, when I try to (on a pullup bar), my body swings around.

Does your hand face out from you, like a traditional pullup? Is it facing towards you, like a chin up? Is it perpendicular to your body? Give me a visual.. Thanks! JW

Ryan said...

Sounds like a good workout Paul. Hope the healing continues to go well.

Paul said...

JP, i posted a picture for you. i hope it helps. i turn my body a bit so as to reduce my body from spinning in circles...

JP Williams said...

thanks bro! exactly what i was wondering!

Anonymous said...

paul- you are my hero and i want to be just like you. just as long as you dont cut your hair anymore
haha

kidding :)
-lil

Anonymous said...

Paul, did you mean to write that you do this workout more than once a day? The blog starts to say, but I think the sentence got messed up with editing or something.

Also, do you do anything for your core muscles, other than the L hang?

Hope your recovery is going well!

Anonymous said...

hey mate, nice to hear things getting better!would be nice to see some vids you display dicribed stuff...so pal, get well soooooon!!

dan

Anonymous said...

Paul, if you weren't injured, would you still work on the Board? Or would you do all your training on actual climbs?

Paul said...

prior to my injury i did all of my training by climbing and the hangboard has been a new workout for me. I am very pleased with the results of having been training on my board and feel that i will incorporate hangboard workouts into my climbing even when i am fully healed from now on.

Justin said...

If you were to create a simular 25 minute workout for the Metolious Stimulator, how would you do it? I'm looking for a good workout to have.

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