This past weekend I made a quick visit to the town of Great Barrington in Western Massachusetts. The town is home to some of the best Gneiss bouldering in the entire country, and has one of the coolest boulders I have ever seen, the Speed Boulder. This boulder has such classics as "Something from Nothing" and "Roses and Blue Jayes." I got up there on Friday morning and went with a local friend to a new are he had found called the darkside just up the road from the main bouldering at Great Barrington. It ended up being a cool spot with some very futuristic projects. I tried one of which that looked possible but ended up getting shut down by it... if this climbe ever goes it will be realllllllly hard... 1 easy roof move followed by an insane dyno and a tough top out. To the right of this line on the same roof I saw a line on the arete that looked much easier and would be a cool FA. I call it "Just in Time," because right after sending this it began raining and we all bailed under a cave until the rain stopped.
The next day was an awesome day with amazing temps for the northeast in the summer, 67 and sunny with a little wind! Josh Lowell (www.biguproductions.com), Cooper Roberts, Sarah and myself headed to the main area of Great Barrington to get some footage for Dosage Volume V. I climbed both a second ascent of this amazing problem called "Castellette SDS" and a repeat ascent of "Roses and Bluejayes" for the film. The footage came out really well and I'm super psyched to see them both all edited up. I also am super psyched to work Daniel on a Colorado Dose with Chuck Fryberger for the New Dosage Volume V as well.
I was really psyched to do "Castellette SDS" since it had been a project of mine for some time now. I began trying it right after I did "Something from Nothing" a few years back but didn't put any more work into it until right after I sent "Roses and Blue Jayes" This past November. I tried it that day and still could not do the crux lock off bump move... similar to that of "left el jorge" but much harder. But this weekend was different, I felt really strong on the lock off move and stuck in a bunch of tries but kept falling off the last wild jump move to a sloping slot. But after a bunch of tries I sent and was very pleased with the progression. I also chalked up this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes" that Dave tried a few years ago after he completed "Roses and Blue Jayes." The line is a 4 move crimp fest up a steep wall with bad feet. Dave believed it to be at least v14 if not v15. I tried the line and I would definitely have to agree! It is really HARD! I can't wait to try it again this upcoming week and this November over my Thanksgiving Break.
Now I'm back at my house in NJ. Daniel flies in tomorrow and we are again off to Great Barrington. I'm really psyched to get him on the lines of the Speed boulder as well as this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes." The weather as of now is not looking to prime but hopefully it will cool off!
I just finished a new painting the other day. I need to upload the pictures to my computer and I should be posting them this evening. OHHH and I would like to say amazing effort to Daniel on the FA of "Jade" in RMNP. I can't wait to try the boulder more this fall!
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