in other news i think i am going to do the final lead world cup in slovenia!!! very psyched! anyone have any tips on training for a lead comp! hit me up!
have a great weekend all!
the newness...
Thursday, October 15, 2009
to joes
off to joes for friday and then a wedding in salt lake on saturday! lots of driving ahead but i am psyched for the wedding and a day in joes!
in other news i think i am going to do the final lead world cup in slovenia!!! very psyched! anyone have any tips on training for a lead comp! hit me up!
have a great weekend all!
the newness...
in other news i think i am going to do the final lead world cup in slovenia!!! very psyched! anyone have any tips on training for a lead comp! hit me up!
have a great weekend all!
the newness...
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9 comments:
Have you thought of using your paintings as designs for boulder pads?
basic but very effective training for lead climbing; do a lot of lead climbing.:) The paintings look really good. It will be cool to watch you progress.
the art is killer...
big props for stepping up to the world cup. that kind of openness and willingness to get out there is what makes you stand out among all the other elite u.s. climbers of the current generation. we need someone to represent! maybe the whole circuit next year??
Hi Paul. I can´t give you trainingtips for lead comps but.....Once you are in Kranj it might be the right time to have a stop at Matatal. November is the best time. If you need some information about the weather or topos just write me.
Nice greets from Carinthia
Kick their asses in Kranj!
Hey I'm a boulderer who just started a year ago. got psyched watching your climbing videos.
btw, I don't really lead climb that much. But what I can advice is you gotta try a whole lot of killer routes for lead climbing. (: And most of all get psyche for it! allez!
As you can climb v15 and what? 5.14d I'm positive that your physical fitness will not be the limiting factor. If anything staying mentally focused, relaxed and ready will be the most important part of your climbing. Psychology is absolutely key to success. You could be tired, sore, weak but if you want it enough, it will happen. Not to say that physical training isn't important. Campus, deadhangs, power endurance bouldering, running laps on routes that are near your limit and down climbing them. Training 2 weeks before a comp will not make you any stronger. Strength comes with time. Although climbing light allows muscles and tendons to grow and repair but still helps to maintain coordination and ideal skin condition. Also taking it easy will make you super stoked to get back harder than ever. Diet, lots of complex carbohydrates protein and water. So train smart, eat well, get lots of rest, and stay psyched.
Try to onsight hard routes.
Here's a quote from a guy who does so-so in the world cup:
(Adam Ondra http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=37046)
Does this mean you also train specifically on plastic?
For competitions I train my endurance, doing circuits on the bouldering wall or if I can get to Prague, I climb with rope. It's very important to get used to feeling artificial hold under my skin. I usually train indoors during the last two weeks before a World Cup, while at the weekends I climb outdoors, on rock.
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