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Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Back from Hueco



This weekend was the second time I was able to boulder outside since injuring my left ankle back in mid October. It was amazing to be back in Hueco again and climbing at what felt like the best i have ever climbed before!

The weekend started off hot! but the day of the comp came and the temps were perfect!!! I started my day by doing Terre de Sienne and then Diaphanous Sea all with in the first hour of the comp. It was cool to get back onto a climb that had been so difficult for me in the past. After this it was on to what would end up being my hardest climb of the day, Algerita. I had done the climb the year before and booted up and quickly found myself about to finish the climb on the last move that is no harder than v5 and as i crossed over to the final jug i broke a crucial handhold with my left foot and found myself on the ground a split second later. I eventually was able to figure out how to send the line with the broken hold and in my opinion feel like it was the hardest thing i did of the day. Though i do not know if i would call it v14 it is for sure a solid v13 now (probably was soft v12 prior to my breaking of the hold).

Anyway, i then found myself at a nice roof called techo de los tres B. I did it first go and moved on to the last v13 on my list, Diabolique. This climb is one of my favorites in Hueco Tanks and was a pleasure to do again. I hooked it up in a few minutes and was psyched to only have one climb left!

By this point in the day my ankle was in a lot of pain and my tips were pretty much purple but i had to finish strong so it was on to loaded direct. After a few crappy tries falling on the second move, i stuck the crux right hand sloper and climbed it to the top.

It felt amazing to be climbing outside again. though i feel as strong as ever my ankle still seems to be holding me back a lot as i was in a considerable amount of pain through the day. Hopefully with in the next few months i will be able to get back to 100 percent again in my left ankle.



Besides that it was a great weekend with good friends and i am psyched for Spring Break... Psychedelic and Rastaman! Stay tuned!!!

8 comments:

Narc said...

what! no terremer send for good measure??

sock hands said...

paul: funny how you didn't mention that all of your motivation came from the single fear that i would put on my boot of doom/justice and crush you if you did not win. i know that every time you were about to melt off and every time you were about to swing off your primal brainstem shot out the message: OH NOOZ SOCKHANDS WILL CRUSH ME IF I DO NOT MYSELF CRUSH, which totally kept you on and gave you the win.

admit right now that the win is attributable to me... or at least a *fear* of me.

sock hands said...

narc: i heard that after paul's first send of terremer it kinda lost its luster... it got all needy and kept calling him complaining when he'd come back again, etc. some sends are best enjoyed once.

Anonymous said...

did you get on the sit to esperanza?

Jon Glassberg said...

you gonna be in bishop between the 5th and the 13th? we are heading there... we need to chill.

hit me on my two way... chirp

canyondust said...

Paul, that is awesome!
That sucks about your ankle, but be patient and give it time. I had a similar injury and it took a long time for the ache to go away... but it WILL go away :)

Peter said...

what's that problem over the death landing to the left in the pic?

wade david said...

your going to have to start holding more powerful gun's to win my heart paul.