Thursday, June 10, 2010
27 crags blogging contest
check it out!!! Really cool contest for a chance to win money towards some of your favorite climbing companies right HERE!!!!
Monday, May 24, 2010
27crags.com
My girlfriend just started working for this sweet website based out of Finland that combines the best aspects of blogger.com and mountainproject.com- its called 27crags.com
It connects climbers all over the world, gives you insight to climbs you are interested in, has a place for you to put the climbs you have done and the climbs that have been your favorite, and for each climb there is a description, photo, map and topo (if a climb is lacking one of them, any member can fill in the missing piece.)
Anyway, you become a member so you have an account and have the ability to add information. I'm starting an account and I'm gonna put up a bunch of photos and topos and you all should too!
27crags.com
It connects climbers all over the world, gives you insight to climbs you are interested in, has a place for you to put the climbs you have done and the climbs that have been your favorite, and for each climb there is a description, photo, map and topo (if a climb is lacking one of them, any member can fill in the missing piece.)
Anyway, you become a member so you have an account and have the ability to add information. I'm starting an account and I'm gonna put up a bunch of photos and topos and you all should too!
27crags.com
Thursday, May 13, 2010
The Insiders Video
Here it is! The video is here and Big Up Productions has done an amazing job with it!! check it out HERE!!
Sunday, May 2, 2010
paintings for sale
I am leaving Colorado in a month and am in great need of getting rid of a bunch of my paintings. If anyone wants any of these I can sell them for cheap. They need a good home so please let me know! Please feel free to email me at boulder.on(at)comcast.net if you have any questions! Thanks!
Friday, April 16, 2010
Earth Treks in a week
The Earth Treks comp is on one week and I am in my last ditch efforts trying to get into indoor shape before the event. I feel pretty good and hope that I can do well this go around! I was going to go to Joe's this weekend but decided to stick around boulder and climb on plastic to train for the comp next weekend.
On Weds, for example I had quite the day of climbing which was awesome! I started at noon by trying the game for 3 hours (felt good to get back on it again, will be trying this weekend too), then climbed at the gym for 3 hours sport climbing and bouldering, and finally went up to Gabor's new climb "botslayer" and managed a flash ascent after having had climbed for over 6 hours that day. It was a nice ending to the day, but my tips were hurting after that one!
A lot of comps are coming up and I am psyched for all of them! I hope that by the time world cup comes around I will be in the best indoor shape of my life and ready for it all!
more updates to come.
On Weds, for example I had quite the day of climbing which was awesome! I started at noon by trying the game for 3 hours (felt good to get back on it again, will be trying this weekend too), then climbed at the gym for 3 hours sport climbing and bouldering, and finally went up to Gabor's new climb "botslayer" and managed a flash ascent after having had climbed for over 6 hours that day. It was a nice ending to the day, but my tips were hurting after that one!
A lot of comps are coming up and I am psyched for all of them! I hope that by the time world cup comes around I will be in the best indoor shape of my life and ready for it all!
more updates to come.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
minnesotakkiiiii
Paul Robinson in Minnesota from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.
I made some sweet holds for nicros this weekend and was able to get outside and make the 2nd ascent of the classic climb the raven put up by Nic Oklobja a couple of months ago. Chyeaaaaaa. Keep an eye out for the signature sets from nicros coming out soon!
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
the thoughts on v16
besides hearing the FRFM controversy I have been hearing a bit of cntroversy about the grading of my new climb. None of this upsets me, and I am glad that people are intrigued by the possibility of how hard this climb may be. Some people, including me, believe the climb to be v16/8c+ and others do not feel that it could possibly be this hard. I would like to put my thoughts out there in regards to the difficulty of "lucid dreaming."
I have been climbing since i was 11 years old. I started from the very bottom and know what it felt like for v0 to be difficult. I have worked through each grade. Every grade brought up its own difficulty for me and some i struggled a great deal with while others were not as hard. Some years I would jump a few grades and others none at all. Through each year of my climbing career i have felt much stronger and have improved both mentally and physically as well as technically.
Since I climbed my first v15's, Jade in late 2007 and Terremer in early 2008, a lot of time has passed. Since the day that I climbed terremer until the other day I had not sent a climb that was rated the same grade or harder. I have climbed well over 500 days since the day that i climbed terremer and know that i have become a much better climber in this time period. I have climbed multiple v14's and 5.14d in a very quick fashion and have competed well in both national and world cup bouldering competitions, all of which preparing me for the climb i sent yesterday. Not only have i competed and climbed outside, but i have also put in more than my fair share of days in the climbing gym, training as hard as i possibly could to one day push the standards of boudering. I would say that in the two year time frame from Terremer to now, I have climbed multiple problems in CATS that are of very similar difficulty to "lucid dreams", "terremer", etc. This, I know does not count for anything but again has prepared me for the hardest of climbs outside.
In the past 2 months I have put a good 7 days of effort into attempting Daniel's "the game" in boulder canyon. This climb in my opinion is a quintessential marker in bouldering. This climb in my mind is v16. This climb is really really hard. I have now been able to do the climb in 2 overlapping sequences and hope to be able to finish the entire line before the temps get too hot. This climb was a good basis for me on how to grade my climb in bishop.
After working "lucid dreaming" and eventually sending the line, it was very hard for me to come up with an idea of its difficulty. The climb is very different from "the game" and requires much different strengths to complete. I thought about terremer and jade. Both of which have a single move that mark the crux. "lucid" has a 2 move crux sequence which i believe to be even more difficult than if you were to combine the jade crux move with the terremer crux move. This 2 move sequence truly was an epic for me. I fell on each of the move hundreds of times and the ability to link the two moves came after 12 days of patiently waiting for everything to be perfect. I know that these two moves joined together are the two hardest single moves in a row that i have ever done. I know that it is a great deal harder that jade and terremer. And i know that this to some does not justify the grade of v16 but in conjunction with the training, the comps, the time, everything from the moment i did terremer to the moment i did "lucid" a lot has changed. I have become a much better climber in every aspect of my climbing. I know that this climb may get downgraded by the second ascendant, however in my mind I know that this is BY FAR the 2 hardest move i have ever completed and in a way really marks a break through for me. Terremer and Jade are one insanely hard move cruxes. This is 2. What will it take to be able to do 3 of these moves in a row? What will the grade on that be? And where can i find this climb? because i want to start working it.
Please feel free to comment. I would love to hear what others have to say and if anyone has any questions ask away.
The footage of "lucid dreams" will be premiered in this years fifth annual reel rock film tour. Check the dates of when the show will be around you as it is looking to be the best one yet!
I have been climbing since i was 11 years old. I started from the very bottom and know what it felt like for v0 to be difficult. I have worked through each grade. Every grade brought up its own difficulty for me and some i struggled a great deal with while others were not as hard. Some years I would jump a few grades and others none at all. Through each year of my climbing career i have felt much stronger and have improved both mentally and physically as well as technically.
Since I climbed my first v15's, Jade in late 2007 and Terremer in early 2008, a lot of time has passed. Since the day that I climbed terremer until the other day I had not sent a climb that was rated the same grade or harder. I have climbed well over 500 days since the day that i climbed terremer and know that i have become a much better climber in this time period. I have climbed multiple v14's and 5.14d in a very quick fashion and have competed well in both national and world cup bouldering competitions, all of which preparing me for the climb i sent yesterday. Not only have i competed and climbed outside, but i have also put in more than my fair share of days in the climbing gym, training as hard as i possibly could to one day push the standards of boudering. I would say that in the two year time frame from Terremer to now, I have climbed multiple problems in CATS that are of very similar difficulty to "lucid dreams", "terremer", etc. This, I know does not count for anything but again has prepared me for the hardest of climbs outside.
In the past 2 months I have put a good 7 days of effort into attempting Daniel's "the game" in boulder canyon. This climb in my opinion is a quintessential marker in bouldering. This climb in my mind is v16. This climb is really really hard. I have now been able to do the climb in 2 overlapping sequences and hope to be able to finish the entire line before the temps get too hot. This climb was a good basis for me on how to grade my climb in bishop.
After working "lucid dreaming" and eventually sending the line, it was very hard for me to come up with an idea of its difficulty. The climb is very different from "the game" and requires much different strengths to complete. I thought about terremer and jade. Both of which have a single move that mark the crux. "lucid" has a 2 move crux sequence which i believe to be even more difficult than if you were to combine the jade crux move with the terremer crux move. This 2 move sequence truly was an epic for me. I fell on each of the move hundreds of times and the ability to link the two moves came after 12 days of patiently waiting for everything to be perfect. I know that these two moves joined together are the two hardest single moves in a row that i have ever done. I know that it is a great deal harder that jade and terremer. And i know that this to some does not justify the grade of v16 but in conjunction with the training, the comps, the time, everything from the moment i did terremer to the moment i did "lucid" a lot has changed. I have become a much better climber in every aspect of my climbing. I know that this climb may get downgraded by the second ascendant, however in my mind I know that this is BY FAR the 2 hardest move i have ever completed and in a way really marks a break through for me. Terremer and Jade are one insanely hard move cruxes. This is 2. What will it take to be able to do 3 of these moves in a row? What will the grade on that be? And where can i find this climb? because i want to start working it.
Please feel free to comment. I would love to hear what others have to say and if anyone has any questions ask away.
The footage of "lucid dreams" will be premiered in this years fifth annual reel rock film tour. Check the dates of when the show will be around you as it is looking to be the best one yet!
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
the indoor shoot
So here is an awesome write-up from the indoor shoot i did in MA last weekend! the video is going to be sick!!!!
Matador Sports
Matador Sports
Monday, March 1, 2010
route setting at Movement
Sunday, February 28, 2010
the late
lately i have been kicking it in Boulder, doing the school thing and training a bunch. I have been getting on the game a bit and i feel like the line is coming together!!! I have spent five days on it and the moves are all starting to get linked together and I am hoping to try it again tomorrow! This line is by far one of the hardest things i have tried and would love to be able to piece it together for the second ascent.
Besides that i have rediscovered the training board at movement which i am really psyched to be training my weakness on, open handed holds and lots of them. I have set myself some really great climbs to train on and am psyched to continue to do my campus routines on them to get stronger for my upcoming trips and competitions.
This next weekend, I am headed to Boston to film with Big Up Productions on this new indoor film shoot. It is going to be an attempt to make indoor climbing appealing to the masses. Chris Danielson is going to be the head setter for the shoot and I am psyched to be a part of it all. More details to come later!
And after Boston, it will only be a few weeks until my return to Bishop for an attempt at the Rasta Man Sit start. It has been quite a while since I tried the line but am feeling stronger than ever and hope to be able to piece it all together this time around!!! I really hope I can as i feel this would be a great contribution to the hard boulder problems in the united states.
stay tuned for more!
Thursday, February 11, 2010
abs nationals
I am heading to abs nationals in virginia this weekend. I have been training pretty hard and am psyched for the comp this weekend! the comp looks to be in quite the winter wonder land. The competiton field looks to be pretty big, i am just hoping everyone will be able to make it to VA to compete with the recent weather epics on the east coast.
Check out this great AAC short promo video. Found it on Youtube this morning and was impressed.
Best of luck to everyone competing this weekend!
Check out this great AAC short promo video. Found it on Youtube this morning and was impressed.
Best of luck to everyone competing this weekend!
Monday, January 18, 2010
new blog on dpm
Check out my new blog on DPM of my most recent trip to red rocks with some cool pictures from the trip taken by alex. HERE!
i am heading to the Outdoor retail show this weekend to meet with a bunch of companies as well as compete in the rope nationals. I am definitely in much better bouldering shape than i am rope climbing however, i am still excited to give the comp a shot and hopefully do decently well.
Besides that, school has started again for my last semester at CU before heading over seas for a while. My classes are decent and i only have school tues and thurs which is a plus and will let me travel for climbing on the weekends much more!
I am heading up to Boulder Canyon today in hopes of getting on the roof project. I did the stand start a few years ago and it seems as if the sit start will end up weighing in around the 14/15 area. it will be nice to give a first day of effort on it today from the bottom.
i am heading to the Outdoor retail show this weekend to meet with a bunch of companies as well as compete in the rope nationals. I am definitely in much better bouldering shape than i am rope climbing however, i am still excited to give the comp a shot and hopefully do decently well.
Besides that, school has started again for my last semester at CU before heading over seas for a while. My classes are decent and i only have school tues and thurs which is a plus and will let me travel for climbing on the weekends much more!
I am heading up to Boulder Canyon today in hopes of getting on the roof project. I did the stand start a few years ago and it seems as if the sit start will end up weighing in around the 14/15 area. it will be nice to give a first day of effort on it today from the bottom.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
new video
chuck made a great video about my life as a climber and painter. take a look. very happy with how it came out!
*click the video to open it in youtube as it will not embed correctly here*
*click the video to open it in youtube as it will not embed correctly here*
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
boulder
i am now back to boulder. the 4 week trip was amazing! after arkansas i headed to red rocks to check out the first ascent potential. i soon found that the potential there was endless! people tend to go to red rocks for the sport climbing however i could easily see this area becoming quite popular in the future! as for my trip i did a bunch of exploring and climbed a few lines that will only be the begining of the climbing in red rocks! i found an amazing project and cant wait to get back again soon! check out one of the fa's i did inred rocks as well as my 2nd ascent of lost in the hood atDPM
Also check out this really cool grant that the AAC just announced for Jonny Copp and Micah Dash
HERE. try and get your trip funded by writing about your latest adventures you are planning! check the link to find out more.
Also check out this really cool grant that the AAC just announced for Jonny Copp and Micah Dash
HERE. try and get your trip funded by writing about your latest adventures you are planning! check the link to find out more.
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