as birdman once said, "get your shine on"

So the sun has finally decided to come out and the past few days have been awesome!!! Climbing in magic wood and Chironico has been such an adventure. The first sunny day I headed to Chironico and it was hot! But I was to put it briefly, extremely extremely psyched!

We warmed up at this nice little boulder with some nice edges. I knew that I was close to “The Great Shark Hunt” and was very psyched to see it. I walked up the hill found it and decided I would love to give it a try. Even though at the beginning of my trip, I really wanted to flash this climb I had been cooped up for so long I just wanted to climb on something cool! So I headed up there and did it in a few goes, probably around 10 minutes or so. I should have flashed it; I fell going to the final jug because of a foot slip and followed in suite doing it two tries later. I have decided for this trip I am not here to contradict any grades on my 8a.nu scorecard but rather will talk about it here on my blog where I feel a lot more comfortable. I hate downplaying others sends, getting criticized, etc for my beliefs on that website and have decided to mainly stay with the grade given the boulder in the guidebook. Here is my opinion on “The Great Shark Hunt,” it felt super casual. If this is V13 then “Nagual” would be V15. If I were to rate this climb I would have given it soft 8a+. Since it is my style to a T I feel that this is reasonable. Now on to “Schule des Lebens,” at first I thought my beta was good but after a little while of trying found new beta that made it a great deal easier. This climb yet again is definitely not V13. I mean it was 22 celcius, V13 is hard!! and it is hard to justify saying this is legit V13 on such a hot day because I don’t want to ever down play the grade of V13. V13 is “Nuthin but Sunshine,” “Spectre,” “Nagual,” and “Algerita.” So my guess on “Schule des Lebens” is hard V11. I am not trying down play anyone’s ascents of any climbs but rather give my honest opinion.

The other day as well as today was spent at the beautiful area of Magic Wood. On my attempt to climb a lot of amazing problems quickly I took full advantage of the day. Climbing from noon until night set in. I warmed up and flashed the famous “Jack’s Broken Heart.” A very nice campusy climb out this nice roof to a scary top out when you are pumped. I loved the climb and am psyched to have done it! Right next to “Jack’s” is “Octopussy.” I should have rested longer after doing the previous climb before my flash go on this one. I got pumped quickly and fell after the crux stupidly. Anyway I finished it off next go after a few minute rest. I was psyched to head up the hill after that to try this nice V12 called “High Spirits” that I had tried in the rain a few days before. To say the least it felt a lot easier! Today my tips hurt and I thought it was going to be a rest day but got roped in to trying the second section of the “never ending story.” Amazing line!!! I did it second go and did the crux of part one very quickly as well. I am psyched to try the full line soon! It should be quite interesting to link the two cruxes!!!

Tomorrow is up in the air, either my first attempts at “New Base Line” or an attempt at the full “Never ending Story.” We shall see! All I know now is that I am psyched and can’t wait to get out to Magic Wood tomorrow morning! Until the next update, keep the comments coming, I love reading them! I will try to post pictures as soon as I remember to bring my camera in from the car at night.

And until next time, download the song, “You Aint know” by Lil Wayne and Birdman. A classic! “I aint got a money printer, so for this paper chase I’m out runnin sprinters!”

as lil wayne once said, "i make it rain"

Well so far my trip to switzerland can be summed up in one melancholy word, rain. I have yet to pull off the ground on anything because it has rained every day i have been here and looks to continue to until as far as the forecast reports. I am pretty sure i have some sort of bad weather spell just following me from climbing destination to climbing destination. If anyone is having a sever drought in their country, just buy me a plane ticket and im sure to bring some very wet weather. Until who knows when, i will continue to walk through the pouring rain looking at soaking wet boulders.

Europe!

It is less than 24 hours until i depart! All of my bags are pretty much packed and i am beyond psyched. I never thought the day would come and i would be so close to being able to go climb in Switzerland! I arrive in Zurich on the 2nd in the morning and will drive down with Garrett Koeppicus to my place of residence for the next several months, maybe even go check out a few of the boulders of Cresciano in the evening if we have time! Claro and the surrounding bouldering areas of Cresciano, Chironico, Brione, etc will be pretty warm during the beginning of the trip but it looks like the temps in Magic Wood should be perfect for the first month of our trip. After that the lower elevation areas including Font should be getting good and thats where the rest of our trip will be spent.

Thanks to everyone that has given me tips on traveling and climbing over there as well as the people who have offered to show me around some amazing bouldering areas! I feel psyched and there are a ton of amazing boulder problems that i sure would love to do before returning back to the United States in mid December.

Before my departure i was able to check out this little bouldering area close to my parents house in NJ. This single boulder was found by a friend of mine a few months ago and i was fortunate enough to check it out on a cool evening the other day. The boulder itself is very much like the rock of Rumney and the climbing is dynamic and quite fun. I managed to put up two really nice lines and below are some pictures from the day. Sorry for the bad quality, they were taken on a camera phone. But at least you can get an idea of the cool roof so close to my house (about a 30 minute drive).






"Sittin Sideways" FA 8a, Lone Pine

Stay tuned for up to date info on my upcoming trip to Switzerland! I will be sure to take tons of photos throughout my adventures!

Europe in 6 days

The past few weeks have been a complete whirl wind for me. After flying home from the tradeshow and being in NJ for a week i made a short trip out to Colorado to take care of a few things before leaving for Europe and get some amazing outdoor bouldering in. In the 6 days i was in Colorado i climbed 1 inside and 4 outside. In those four days i hiked a total of 34 miles and wow my legs are so tired! I did get to check out some amazing bouldering in the park and can't wait until next summer until i can yet again explore the high altitude bouldering areas of RMNP. Other than hiking a bunch i helped my girlfriend move into her dorm for her first semester at CU, hung out with a bunch of good friends, got an international driving license, and made sure i was fully ready for my trip to Europe.


Now i am back in the heat of NJ visiting my family for a few days before i depart on my 3.5 month adventure to the land of southern Switzerland! As of right now i am a bit nervous but extremely psyched! Pretty much i have no idea how to get around or where exactly i will be going... all i know is that i will be living in Claro with my good friend Garrett Koeppicus and going to be exploring all over the place. if anyone wants to give me a tour of magic wood, etc. in the beginning of my trip that would be phenomenal! Other than that I am just psyched to be about to start the adventure of a lifetime and can't wait to see the amazing bouldering that Switzerland has in store for me for the next couple of months!

I will update with some photos from my latest trip to Colorado once i upload them on my comp so stay tuned!

just a heads up

As Jamie mentions in his blog (http://www.b3bouldering.com/2008/08/11/the-colorado-bouldering-
guidebook-2/#comments) this book is completely wrong! Check out Jamie's blog for a full write up of his 2 cents on the book itself.

Don't buy this guidebook! Falcon guides should have done a bit of research before publishing this terribly written guide to Colorado Bouldering.

Pictures from the end of the trip

I just got to Salt Lake City yesterday for the Outdoor Retail Show. The competition this year is going to be huge and i cant wait to compete in qualifiers this evening!

Here are some pictures from the end of my trip to Africa!


Sky! Best boulder ever!


the Tiida! she held strong!


nice sunset on the beach


bird island


the unrepeated "Oliphants Dawn"

home and very jet-lagged

The last few days of my trip were extremely productive and i was so psyched to finish off a bunch of the climbs that i had come close to earlier on in the trip! I went back and looked at my 2008 send list again that i had posted earlier this year (p-d-robinson.blogspot.com/2007/11/2008-is-on-its-way.html) and even though i did not look at it once during my trip to africa i climbed every single boulder problem on my list and am psyched to continue on with the rest of my year!!! The only boulers so far that i havent done that i definetely wont get to finish up this year are "rasta man sit" and "dominated" i was hoping to get a short trip to yosemite this spring but was unable to pull it off before the hot weather arrived. And well rasta man, that was an epic and will be saved for 2009! The biggest chunk of my list is still to come and that comes from all over Europe. I leave on September 1 and am already so psyched for the 3.5 month trip ahead of me!

I arrived home on the 31st and felt pretty fine the first day but the next morning when i woke up at 5 am i knew that jet lag had set in. Now it is monday morning at 8 am (the 4th) and i have already been awake for 2 hours. hopefully it will all subside soon. i have been frantically going to the climbing gym trying to get into some sort of decent indoor climbing shape before the big OR Competition this upcoming weekend. I pretty much feel like crap inside, right now im blaming it on the jet lag! Hopefully tonight in the gym will be a different story and i will feel at least a little bit stronger.

Wish me luck! I will try to post some pictures from the end of our trip later this week so stay tuned.

mooiste maise

The other day was a super fun day of climbing. Though i thought i was not going to try anything new before the end of the trip, after watching daniel attempting "Mooiste Maise" i could not refrain from trying the beautiful line. The first day on it was really crappy conditions and the slopers felt so bad. But the next day i came back to it and finished it up in a few tries. Below is a picture of me on the send.



Mooiste Maise, V14 Photo Andy Mann

Update: Beth has sent "Petit Hueco," V8 but claims that it only felt like 12b, all i have to say is what a beast! And Tommy has been continuing to kill it with great progress on an amazing project and sending "Black Shadow," V13 in a very short amount of time! Everyone else is continuing to send at an alarming pace and i don't think a day goes by without at least one person sending one of their projects. The trip is coming to a close shortly but hopefully not without some more amazing rock climbing before departure.

Hot weather is rolling in and we are all resting for the next two days, but with skin hopefully healing, hopefully more sending will be coming soon!



Right after sending Amandla

12 days left (an actual update)

The Rain has stopped and the climbing is going super well!!! The temps have been better, the rock has dried up, and the climbing days are getting better and better. People have left the house and more people have come. Tommy, Beth, and Courtney are the newest inhabitants and super fun to have around. Sarah left the other day but not without leaving a final amazing mark at the end of her trip by sending her 10 day project “Caroline” V10. This was the first of the grade for her and she was super psyched to leave the trip having sent her amazing project!

For the remainder of my trip, I told myself that there were 8 boulder problems that would be awesome to do before leaving. The list is as follows: Amandla V15, Madiba V14, Sky V14, The Power of One V13, The Vice V13, Green Mamba V13, Quintessential V13, and a project at the Fortress. So far in the last 3 days of climbing I have sent four of them and am super psyched to continue on with the rest as my trip winds to an end before the departure date of July 30th.

After the rain finally subsided, I was so psyched to get back to working on my projects again! The first day I gave my first attempts on “Quinntesential.” Though the rock was still a bit moist and it was near dark, I got very close and am very psyched to get back on it as soon as my tips heal enough to crimp on those sharp crimps again. The next day was dedicated to my project of choice, “Sky.” This line is absolutely amazing and climbs the underside of this amazing roof on huge moves between decent holds. I did the stand start but was so close, but still unable to link it from the bottom. I so psyched to try this one again. After a rest day it was up to “Madiba,” which on the first day of attempts felt extremely hard and maybe impossible for me. But today was different; I felt really good on it and sent on the 3rd go of the day. Madiba climbs out this amazing roof through 16 powerful moves. Daniel and I thought the boulder in our minds was a link crux that pieced out consisted of a V9 followed by a V12 followed by a V9/10 final redpoint crux. After this climb, we were both psyched and headed down to “Green Mamba.” This prob was not on my list at first, but after a few tries quickly hopped aboard. The conditions were not so prime the first day and I came back the next day and quickly finished it off in 2 goes.

Yet again another rest day which consisted of driving Sarah to Cape Town to catch her flight back to the US. It was a nice day away from the dirt roads and simple life of the rocklands, but as quickly as I was glad to get away, the boulders were calling me back for another day of climbing. I was psyched for “Quinntesential” but at the last second decided to go up to Road Crew for my first attempt on “Amandla” and “The Power of One.” “Power” went quickly, both Daniel and I sent it with quite differing beta. It was really cool to solve a boulder problem using the exact same handholds but completely different feet due to the differences in our styles. After sending this and realizing colder afternoon temps were coming in we quickly headed over to “Amandla.” At first I thought it looked sooo hard! I tried the top first; after a few falls off the top bit I had it pretty figured out, but knew the bottom was the crux. I tried the bottom bit a few tries and figures out some pretty good beta for myself. With a nice 10 minute rest I felt strong, stuck the crux move and climbed it to the top! What a great feeling it was to climb the most impressive and possibly the hardest line in the Rocklands in less than 2 hours on my first day of attempts. I will admit, the climb is my style to perfection and crimps up a 45 are what I love to climb on I may be a little biased in saying it was one of the most amazing climbs I have ever done. Big Up Productions was there to catch the send on film and will surely be a part of the Real Rock Tour this upcoming Fall. Daniel did most of the moves but was unable to do the crux bit. I am not sure on the grade at the moment, other than realllly really hard. I hope that he will send in the upcoming two weeks and we can talk about a consensus of how hard we think it is. But, for now I will say it is at least V14 and in my eyes a harder version of “The Swarm” in Bishop.

After topping it out I realized I had a quite heinous split on my left pointer finger, so the next few days will be used to heal it up in an attempt to finish the last four climbs I want to do on my list before leaving this amazing place on July 30th. All I can say is that there is a 100 percent chance that I am coming back next year! This place is just beyond comprehension and there will never be a shortage of hard amazing climbs to be done here.

Update

It seems as if we may be able to climb tomorrow!!! Lately we have just been trying to pass the time, a few of us drove to Cape Town to enjoy a day of indoor climbing and to see the scenery of cape town in the pouring rain.

The climbing gym was fun! It was nice to climb after having not had for 3-4 days :(. the next day we went to the aquarium in cape town which was awesome! We walked through the whole place and saw some amazing creatures from under the sea. In about ten days i have to drop of my girl friend, Sarah off at the airport and me, tommy, and a few others are hoping to go cage diving with the great whites if all falls into place! Stay tuned for more info on that...

Anyway, we are now headed back to the rocklands to hopefully climb tomorrow.

UPDATE: we got to climb three amazing days! it has been so much fun and some amazing boulders got sent! I finally did "ray of light!" and did a joint fa with daniel "el corazon." hopefully the weather will remain good for the rest of the trip!!! Tomorrow will be a rest day for me and Sarah will be attempting her project, "Caroline." good luck to her on that!!

and even more rain...

yep it sucks. I feel as if my trip is getting completely shorted due to the lack of climbing we have been able to get done. Today marks the 6th straight day of rain in a row unfortunately. The forecast says that it will stop in 2 days and hopefully we will get to climb again soon.

As of now, i have a bunch of projects that i am really psyched on! especially this one roof called "madiba." it is a longer problem going out a huge roof about 9 feet off the ground. The boulder is approximately 15 moves and never eases up until you are topping out the boulder!

Hopefully more updates soon that actually relate to climbing... but until then we will continue to watch the rain fall.

more rain.

It has been continuously raining for a few days now unfortunately. Yesterday the rain cleared for a few hours and Daniel, Andy Mann, and myself headed out to this amazing roof compression boulder called "Black Shadow" 8B. I did all the moves very quickly and figured out a few linkages and sent the boulder in no time! Its such a good feeling to finish stuff off with a true sense of execution, just not getting in any sort of epic mode and just doing the boulder and moving on. PSYCHED! We will see what tomorrow brings but hopefully there is no more rain!

Yesterday we also went to the riverside boulders and saw the amazing "Oliphants Dawn" 8B and "Moistie Masie" 8B+. So psyched to go try them! Tomorrow, if the rain stops, wither monkey wedding or quintessential!!!



"Pinotage" = AMAZING

Getting internet is harder than sending V15

So getting internet has been such a hectic mess! The photographer, Andy Mann, has not been able to send out any pictures to anyone, i have not been able to updaye the blog, and pretty much its mass confusion when trying to get internet in this country. We finally found a small cafe about 1 hour from our house where we can get some extremely slow internet! I am psyched to have now been here for one week and now am feeling like i am climbing up to par finally. Today it is raining and thats why we made the trek back to the main town. It is a small town called Clan William and is well... rustic. I dont really know how to explain it. The grocery store is nice but the rest of the town is pretty beat down and it definitely reminds you where you are every time you turn a corner.

Yesterday we climbed at a newer area known as the sassies! It was as usual really nice rock with jaw dropping views. Daniel and I quickly did the test piece of the area "Shoshalosa" originally graded 8B+, but we felt 8A+ was more appropriate with the two of us giving it no more than 10 goes total to send it. We then quickly dispatched a few other really nice lines including "paula abdul" 8a, "leap of faith" 8a, "unnamed" 8a, and flashing the probably best 7c+ in the world "pinotage."

Hopefully the rain will stop soon and we can continue climbing. Daniel and I are both very close to the unrepeated 8b+ "Monkey Wedding" at the roadside area!



Monkey Wedding 8b+



classic warmup!

More updates to come!

south africa: the beginnings

I have finally made it! I have never been on a single airplane for this long in my life. I now fully understand the term jet lag! So after a super long plane ride, which was made a lot more enjoyable because of great friends sarah orens, daniel woods, and laura griffiths, we eventually found ourselves in the cape town international airport feeling quite distant from home, but extremely psyched for the over 50 day adventure ahead of us!!!

We quickly got our rental car and hit the streets! Wow, I would have never imagined how hard driving on the opposite side of the road would be! It is by far one of the most bizarre things to be thrown straight into the middle of, especially Cape Town rush hour traffic! So after some close calls and a few days, I am finally starting to become accustomed to their driving style and not being scared out of my mind every time I get behind the wheel. Other than that, the roads around the rocklands are heinous dirt roads and we already lost a rim, or possibly was stolen in Clan William.




After making the long trek to Clan William, we got groceries and headed out to our village in the middle of the rocklands. It is a nice house with a bunch of climbers and friends. I am very excited to be here! Along with daniel, laura, sarah, and myself is wills young, lisa rands, tony lamiche and his friends.



On our first day we headed up, in the evening, to a small bouldering area by the road a few miles from the house. It was small but had a few very nice moderates. This one in particular "pardon my french" 6c+ was a perfect climb to stretch out on after such a long plane ride. We all sent and continued on to a few harder climbs. Daniel and I both did this nice small arete called "tony problem #2" 7c+/8a very quickly despite the hot temps. After that I strolled up the hill to see another classic moderate and dispatched of it as the sun was setting.



We headed back to the house and continued to have a great night. With immense jetlag I was extremely tired and fell asleep at around 10 pm and did not awake until after 11 the next morning. The past few nights have all been this way, trying to get over the tiredness of traveling to the other side of the world.

The other day (6/13) was our first real climbing day! We headed to the "roadside area" which is a 35 minute hike from the car! Daniel was super psyched to show me a bunch of amazing lines that he had done, tried or seen his last trip here. It was a hot day and I was still very tired, but it was awesome to see some amazing lines for the upcoming weeks! They got us very psyched. Daniel and I warmed up and quickly dispatched a nice 8a called baboon master and 7c+ caroline. The girls worked caroline a bunch and will hopefully send it very soon!



As the sun set daniel and I did a obligatory lap on the classic highball "creeky heights" 7a. It is quite amazing! I can't wait to get back to the roadside area to try some of the harder lines!




Yesterday was third day on but I am finally getting accustomed to climbing here. Though it is still a bit hot, the weather should be cooling off in the next few days. So yesterday we went to the alpha farms, a small area located up a hillside from this guy’s house. To climb there you have to pay him 30 rand a person, about 4 USD. The bouldering up there is on some amazing rock! I worked on this amazing 8b, "ray of light" that I got really close to. Daniel was psyched to head up there because he had worked all of the moves out on his previous trip and was psyched to go for the send! He sent and it was super inspiring to watch. I can't wait to get back up there to hopefully send! After this climb, just around the corner, we stumbled upon an amazing 8a called "gliding through waves like dolphins" its pretty much a perfect pinch fest up an extremely overhung barrel! I sent in a few tries and am super psyched on the boulder.

Today is a rest day (6/15), we scoped out some boulders at a newer sector called "the 8 day rain" area. I am pretty psyched for this one boulder "quintessential." There is also this other area called the riverside which has some amazing hard lines and some great projects! More to come!!!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

the time has come

So i completed the World Cup and had a great time in my first ever world cup competition! I ended up placing third and was extremely happy about that! I know what to train for next time and how to do things a little differently to hopefully do even better the next time i compete.

Other than that in less than 12 hours i will be on my way to africa for almost two months! keep a look out on my site as well as the Five Ten website for write ups on how my trip is going etc!!!

Back to packing! Have a great summer everyone!!!

semifinals

quick update! I made finals in 4th place!!!! so psyched right now. as i ended my climbing i thought there was no way i was gonna make it but did and am suppppperrr psyched for finals to come tonight!!!

Male Finalists -

1. Killian Fischuber
2. Gabriel Moroni
3. Ty Landman
4. Paul Robinson
5. Jerome Pouvre
6. Daniel Woods

Sorry i don't know the womens list. Team USA Representing!!! hopefully we can take this world cup down! Good Luck DW and the American women that made it to finals!

day one - Team USA represent!

Day one of the world cup has finally concluded. After having to sit in isolation for just about 6 hours i am now done my first ever qaulifying round of a world cup competition! I ended the day in 1st place. The problems were extremely hard and i only managed to get two top total! More info to come, hopefully good news!!

To keep my mind off of being nervoud i have been playing this game a bunch! A true classic. my high score is level 112!!! Post up a comment if you beat my score!

City Jumper

Congrats to everyone from USA that made it to the semis: Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods, Mark Hobson, Carlo Traversi, Kyle Owen, Alex Johnson, Tiffany Hensley Alex Puccio, Charlotte Jouett, Lisa Rands, and Lizzy Asher!!!!

Tomor should be exciting!

EDIT: Level 119! JYYEEAAAHHH hahaha. i think i may go professional in city jumper soon.

The Time has come!

Wow! how time flies! There is only 2 days left until Dosage 5 premieres at the Boulder theater, only 4 days until the qualify round of the World Cup in Vail, and only 8 days until I leave for South Africa for almost 2 months!!! I am super psyched about all the awesome opportunities i will be having in the next week and can't wait to get to South Africa!

I have been continuing to train a lot over the course of the last few weeks and finally felt really good the other day while climbing at the Spot! The other day when talking with a friend about climbing we discussed reaching a new level in your own climbing fitness. I dunno if what we said really made any sense, but i feel like possibly it could have. We thought that you are more or less at a certain level. If you continue to climb you will hopefully break into a new level of climbing. But before you break into that new level you kinda suck for a short period of time. We felt that this was because your muscles and body are adapting to being at that new level and then after sucking for a little bit you are like at a new plateau, above the last and ready to continue on. I just felt super crappy the past few weeks and am starting to feel really good again. I truly hope i have reached the next level in my climbing growth especially since South Africa is right around the corner!!!

So I thought i was going to have a pro blog for Urban Climber, but i'm not sure what went down with that and haven't heard anything from anyone so i had this cool little section where i put down some of the more recent songs i have been listening to so people could go out and download them or whatever if they were psyched on the artist or genre of music. But none-the-less since that kinda fell through i guess ill update on here so hot JAMZ haha. Download, buy the cd, I dunno, do whatever you do to get your music, but these songs I think are really good so if your into hip-hop/rap then take a minute and check them out!

-Slim Thug off the album Already Platinum, “3 Kings”

Pretty much Slim Thug is amazing! Straight from Houston, Texas Slim Thug has some amazing beats and lyrics with a DJ that can chop and skrew to perfection. Pretty much his entire CD is great, definitely worth checking out! I mean who doesn’t love that Dirty South gangsta rap about sipping on that lean!?



-Notorious B.I.G. off the album Life after Death (Disc 1), “Kick in the Door”

Going old school on this one, but who doesn’t love Biggy. I had this song on my ipod for a while but was really bored one day on an airplane and was searching for new songs to listen to and stumbled across this Biggy masterpiece. “kick in the door, wave in the 44, all you heard was poppa don’t hit me no more.” Classic!



-Mobb Deep off the album Blood Money, “Capital P, Capital H”

I was in a record store a few months ago itching for some new music and stumbled upon this album. Though I am not usually a fan of G-unit or its affiliates, I decided why not give this cd a try since Mobb Deep had only recently been signed by g-unit records and hopefully would not be another CD for the infamous snitch, Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson, to show off his rapping “ability.” I was correct; there are only one or two songs with 50 and the rest of the album is pretty good with a few really good songs.
BTW: If you haven’t seen it yet check out the DVD “Stop Snitchin’ Stop Lyin’” produced by The Game, it’s a must see for all G-Unot fans and is absolutely hilarious!



I finally finished shaping my holds for Nicros and will be sending them off to them in the next few days. I hope they make a line out of them! I will be taking tons of pics in South Africa and will try to update as much as possible so stay tuned for some awesome adventures from my trip to the other side of the world!

this video is amazing!

MUTO a wall-painted animation by BLU from blu on Vimeo.

2 weeks away

So as the world cup quickly approaches, I am becoming more and more nervous each passing day. I am excited to compete in the comp with a ton of extremely strong competitors from all over the world. I took a look at the structure of the wall yesterday on the ifsc website and it looks like a great venue for a competition of this stature! I am also pleased to see that there is a lot more walls that are not super super steep. I have always been a fan of the slightly to a bit over hanging walls when competing in comps. But i also feel that these angles will be where the Europeans will succeed as well.

Other than continuing my training for the world cup i have been working on two forms of art, my painting and also shaping holds for Nicros. It is definitely really hard working on a 3-dimensional plane! i have definitely never tried any type of sculpture but have been having a lot of fun working out ideas for holds in this crazy foam material. I have found the best technique is to use my finger like sand paper, though it is a slow process it allows me to work out a lot of details as i shape the hold. Below are two of more recent paintings:





Other than that not too much has been going on. It has been very hot in Boulder and climbing outside unless at the high altitude areas which have tons of snow, is still very difficult. I can't wait for South Africa in just over 2 weeks, the list of boulder problems i want to do during my time there is ever increasing! I hope we get some phenomenal weather while I'm down there!

home

Black wallstreet for life!

Yesterday i flew back to NJ to visit my family for a week before heading back to CO to continue my training for the world cup and South Africa. But before i went home i had some business to take care of up at the park! After 3 days of work and one extremely hard move later, i sent the FA of Mendax, 8B. This problem is on the Veritas Boulder in RMNP and starts on the same starting holds as low left veritas but rather than climbing right, it climbs directly left and up to a heinous right hand pich to a big move to a not so good sloper at the lip. I sent the line just before i had to leave the other day and am psyched to have finished it up! Keep a look out for video from the one and only Sneeldoggggg aka Scott Neel

Now all i've got to do is wait for a day that is not hot in boulder to go back and attempt Suspension of Disbelief. I truly think this boulder hates me! Every time i go back there, there is just something wrong (its snowing, its hailing, its raining, its deathly hot, theres no wind, the ticks are taking over, etc.) But none the less i have decided this isn't going to stop me from trying to send in the next few weeks i have left in CO!!!



(A visual representation of the death that has become Eldo on previous attempts to send!)

Last but not least i got my tickets to europe for the fall the other day!!! I fly into Zurich on September 1st and depart on December 12th!!! sooooooo psyched!!!

More news to come soon!

the recent

Training is going super well which i am very pleased with. The extent of my training is as follows on a daily basis:

Wake up at like 8:20 or so, head downstairs and do the first part of my training exercise (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups). Then I eat breakfast, Cocoa puff preferably. Head to school, do the school thing for a few hours and come home. If its a nice day outside and I don't have too much work to get done ill head outside to climb but if not its to training central, CATS! Lately i have been starting my work outs with a good session of bouldering followed by an intense power endurance work out. This climb "Hudz" is kicking my butt! its like 45 or so moves long and probably around 5.14 with jibs and tracking for feet. I hope to send soon. While doing my endurance work outs if someone is climbing on a cool new boulder prob i will be likely to try that and then get back to the "Hudz" epic. There is this other climb at CATS as well that is awesome and perfect for training too. It is about 30 moves of straight micro crimps! So hard my guess is probably v14 to link the entire thing together. My best effort was when i did approximately 28 moves in a row. After my workout I do exactly what I do in the morning (55 pushups, 15 ab rollers, 100 crunches, and 25 pull ups) and then head home extremely tired.

I feel a lot stronger in the week or so i have been doing this and i cant wait to continue to feel stronger the more i keep training!

This past weekend i headed up to the park for the first time of the season to climb on the veritas boulder! I managed to climb dave's low left veritas which is super pumpy and an alright addition to the boulder. Though that is not what i went up there for. This project to the left of veritas is sooooo sick! I did it from a stand start and it feels really hard. I cant wait to go back and try to link all the bottom moves in, its definitely going to be a sick new test piece for the park when it gets completed!

And last but not least, i ordered some pizza the other night and who would have guessed who would have wrung the door bell to deliver my pizza.... OLSON! what a beast!



As it is kinda hard to tell from the picture, Olson works for a pizza restaurant called double d's. I mentioned to him that he should hire a girl like this to deliver the pizza and he might get better tips.

dear fellow readers of my blog,

as was my hopeful desire to send rasta man sit start this weekend, I am unfortunately reporting back with a lack of success. I could easily make excuses for why i did not send (85 degree highs, being very jetlagged from 6 flights in the course of 8 days), but no i have decided that rather than making excuses i am going to work even harder to become a better climber for my upcoming trips! Starting today I have decided i am going to up my training by a ton to become the best boulderer i can possibly be. I hope that by the time south africa comes in less than two months from now i will feel fully prepared and ready to destroy anything that the Rocklands has to offer!



A picture i found on google of Amandla, SOOO RAD LOOKING!

Other than not sending i had an awesome weekend none the less! Amazing rock and great friends to climb with. Did some classics i had done before along with a few new lines that made the trip that much more memorable.

Im back in Colorado now and loving the nice sunny weather. Im hoping for a cool day to go and try suspension so hopefully some news on that soon! Other than that i have exactly 2.5 weeks left of school until my 8 month climbing road trip!!!!!!! cant wait! This blog will be the place to get all the info on my upcoming travels so stay posted!

rumney and the east coast

I am now back in Colorado until Thursday to get some school work done, attend class, and hand in a few papers. Then it is off to Bishop Thursday afternoon! So psyched for Rasta Man Sit, hopefully this time i will send!

This past weekend I flew out to the north east so that i could try to send the fly in Rumney, NH. My single day of attempts was luckily enough to pull it off and am super psyched to have sent the line. After my day in Rumney and before heading to the airport to head back home i got to go try the "book of bitter aspects" in bradley, CT. Though extremely tired from the day before i gave it some really good attempts and can't wait to get back on it at a later date! It is such an inspiring line that i hope one day to finally send. 2 hard moves followed by a short v8 up an intensly steep wall! PERFECT!

Updates to come regarding my weekend trip back to Bishop!!!

Smug alert in full effect, beware!

rumney

so I am heading back to the east coast this weekend for an EMS photo/video shoot and am very excited to try the fly. the problem being that the forecast is calling for rain every single day I am there! UGH!! UGH!! It just seems as if everywhere i have been trying to go lately the weather turns to crap the entire time i am there. We'll see hopefully it will get better, it would be nice to give the fly a good honest effort! But alas, I am going to keep my hope high until I have to get on a plane back to Denver on monday evening.



To everyone that is looking at a weekend of possible rain, keep your fingers crossed, its gonna be perfect i know it!

Bishop in 7 days!!! Rasta Man Project must go!