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Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Midnight Express and Bishop

The weeks seem like days here in Boulder. It just seems like yesterday I was coming home from Hueco and starting the new semester of school. Now it is practically spring break and I cant wait for another 10 day trip to Bishop! This year the main focus will be the Rasta Man Vibration Sit Start Project. It has definitely been on my mind for the past year and cant wait to begin trying it again with some more serious effort.

Lately I have been just climbing around Boulder and have been trying to heal my right middle toe. I had to get stitches in it because i had a cist and the doctor had to cut it out. It kinda sucked not being able to wear a shoe for about 2.5 weeks but just in the past week or so i have been able to wear both climbing shoes again! As soon as I found out i could wear both shoes i returned to my short term project of Midnight Express. The day I sent (saturday) was absolutely perfect. The weather was cold (31 feels like 9 said weather.com for Nederland with a good steady wind)! PERFECT! cold but warm enough to not be frozen the whole time. After warming up i felt confident and ready to go. My first attempt was really good and i knew that today could be that day! After several bad attempts, i finally stuck the under-cling perfectly and climbed it to the top without any hesitation! It felt good, it had been a while since i had done something hard that i was proud of.


photo A. Mann: The final overwhelming moves of the infamous Midnight Express

Psyched! Bishop 2 days!

Monday, February 18, 2008

Some outdoor rock climbing and nationals

The past two weeks have been pretty nice around here. The freezing cold days are finally starting to move out and the more temperate, perfect climbing days, are moving in. Last week i actually got to climb outside for one of the first times since Hueco! I went to Boulder Canyon and promptly finished up Chris Schulte's "Free Range" 8B. It felt really good to be out on rock again as well as send a new hard boulder problem! A few days later I headed out to Suspension on one of the most beautiful February days with fellow friends Andy Mann and Carlo Traversi. We warmed up and all was well until we stumbled upon Suspension deep back in the woods of Eldo. The top had about a foot of snow on it and underneath the snow was a layer of solid ice. Carlo and I went to work cleaning off the top but that just made the boulder seep sooo freaking much! thus we continued to work (for over 4 hours!) knowing there would be no way of climbing on it that day.


photo A. Mann

We were hoping that it would not snow in the next few days and that the day after nationals we could go out and climb on it. yet, to both of our dismay it decided to snow and now i have no idea if the boulder is climbable again. But we will see, hopefully sometime this week i can get out there!

Other than that I competed in the ABS Nationals at the spot over the weekend. It was quite exciting to say the least. The gym was so packed that people had to stand outside to watch the comp, people who had even paid for tickets! The first day of the comp i did not climb so hot. I don't think that i warmed up properly and by problem 3 i was feeling a big flash pump and was dreading what was to come on problem 4. I ended the day in 4th place going into finals. I really enjoy climbing at around this spot in the running order. Going to early can be a bit of a pain because holds can be greasy and the crowd isn't always psyched yet. But going all the way at the end kinda sucks too because the holds can be too chalky and the crowd is expecting something huge out of you and that can make anyone very nervous. But 4th to last out seemed to work well for me. Problem 1 was a nice traverse on the CO granite wall with a nice dyno finish. The problem was well set and it was a nice problem 1 to start off the final round. problem 2 was on the hueco wall coming straight out of the low scoop. The bottom was easy followed by a huge double light bulb so-ill hold. i was scared they were gonna use use this hold! Its my nemesis. Anyway first try i fell going out to it but second try fired the problem and was ready for the intimidating 3rd problem. As i set out on the third i knew this one looked like my style, technical, big moves and smaller type holds. First try i fell low because i placed my heel wrong but second try i sent! what an amazing problem set in a gym! perfect moves and an amazing finish high off the ground. At this point i knew i was in good shape! 3 sends and one climb left to go. Final 4 was again on the hueco wall, but it climbed the large double scoop and looked really hard! My first try was my best, i climbed up to a very difficult bump move and had the wrong body position and took quite a crazy fall. My last attempt was crap and i knew i was tired, but oh well. The rest of the climbers proceeded through the order and i watched nervously. When Sean was done climbing i then knew that i had won! It was a great accomplishment for me as i have never won the ABS Nationals before and am very excited to say i have now!

None the less, i am now hanging out taking some tests for school this week, along with trying to get climbing outside and work on my newest painting. I just finished a painting last week and have a picture of it below (its all grainy cuz my camera its ultra sucky). Andy Mann I'm stealing your camera! :P



I hope everyone is having a nice February! More updates to come now that the weather is finally shaping up!

Monday, February 4, 2008

the snow and cold

well im sure this snow and cold is getting everyone down in and around boulder. lately i havent been able to get outside at all and have been merely climbing inside way too much. but hopefully the weather will get good soon. not too much news around here lately, nationals is in a few weeks and that should be pretty exciting. it is looking like later this week might be good for climbing we will see, updates coming soon if we actually have some notable weather to climb in...

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

hueco trip


photo dylan spurgin


photo andy mann


photo scott

So as my trip to hueco is coming to an end, 2 more climbing days left :(, i am even more excited about my future extended climbing trips. My trip to hueco has been extremely successful, i have now climbed pretty much everything i wanted to this trip and wont be leaving with any regrets of not trying or doing any specific boulders. The wather was pretty much perfect my entire trip and i had a ton of fun climbing and hanging out with a lot of my reallly good freinds.

I am heading back to Boulder on saturday and am hoping for no snow storms along the way. I have one more semester left of school before my 7 month road trip begins. I hope that these next few months in boulder consist of very little snow and lots of perfect climbing days with sunshine. Suspension, here i come! haha i know i have said this many times before, but hopefully i can obtain the ascent soon! i have never worked a boulder this long in my life, but i am not getting worn out on it at all. every time i go is a new experience and one i am always looking forward to.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

hueco in t-minus 48 hours

so trying to finish up my projects in Colorado have turned into a total disaster. we have received so much snow in the last few weeks that getting outside is nearly impossible (trust me I tried multiple times). so i'm heading to hueco on Monday night not having finished my projects in Colorado but none the less am extremely psyched for the boulders down there. My tips are in good condition and i feel that i am physically in good condition and hope that this years trip to hueco is my best one yet! I will try and post photos etc while i'm down there so keep a look out! Best of luck to all over the holidays and happy holidays!

Monday, November 26, 2007

back in b-town

after a refreshing break and going home for a while, i'm now back in boulder for a few days before the final triple crown at the stone fort, Tennessee. The past few weeks have been super hectic with school along with having to fly across the country every weekend for a comp. but after this weekend the flying will be over with and it will then be only 2.5 weeks until Hueco! I cannot wait for hueco and hope that the weather is good this winter trip. As for this week, i was hoping to get a lot of boulder problems done outside since i wouldn't have that much school work but not to my liking i came home to find a good bit of snow on the ground. im hoping that it will melt off by man it is sooooooo cold out there! Hueco cant come soon enough! so with some luck ill hopefully be able to get out a day or two before i head to Tennessee this weekend. Since I havent posted any pics in a while... here sre some from some of my most recent adventures.


halcyon


Halcyon


confident man


air jordan


chris getting it done the crazy way!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

2008 is on its way!

so 2007 is almost done and i have 5 problems left to do before the end of the year. 2007 was the first year i set out a list of boulder problems to do for the year. Now that i have about a month and a half left i have nearly completed all of them except for 5, those being Suspension of disbelief, Esperanza, Terremer, Nagual, and Slashface. I have to decided to count my entire Hueco trip (which will culminate on the 13th of January 08) as still part of my 2007 list and then start out on my 2008 list. Today I decided i would write up my list and this year i decided i would post this list and as i hopefully tick them off write about them! so here it is, all of which are places on plan on spending lengthy periods of time! 2008 list!

8c

Usa

Rasta Man Vibration Sit (Project), buttermilks

France

Satan I helvete assis, font-Long’s Vaux

Switzerland

From dirt grows the flowers, chironico

South Africa

Amandla, Rocklands

8b+

France

Gecko assis, font-Les Beaux Quartiers

Switzerland

Dreamtime, cresciano
New base line, magic wood

South Africa

Moiste Meisie, Rocklands
Madiba, Rocklands

Austria

Bugeleisen, malltatal
Emotional landscapes, malltatal

8b

USA

Dominated, Yosemite
Xavier’s Roof, Dales Camp

France

Gecko, font-Les Beaux Quartiers
Fata morgana assis, font-Long’s Vaux
Satan I helvete, font-Long’s Vaux

Switzerland

Shadowfax, chironico
La prue, cresciano
Mithril, cresciano
The great shark hunt, chironico
Ganyemede takeover, brionne
Vecchio leone, brionne

South Africa

Quintessential, Rocklands
Shosalosa, Rocklands
Black shadow, Rocklands
Armed response, Rocklands
Leopard cave, Rocklands
Ray of light, Rocklands

8a+

USA

Shadow warrior, Yosemite

France

Total eclipse, font-Cul De Chien
Chaos, font-Rocher Gréau
Big Dragon, font-Petit Bois

Switzerland

Pura vida, magic wood
Jack’s Broken Heart, magic wood
Salamander, brionne
Octopus, magic wood
Frank’s Wild Years, chironico
Kirk windstain, cresciano


South Africa
Nutsa, Rocklands
Oral office, Rocklands

this week suspension!!!!



photo andy mann

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Projects

Lately I have been climbing inside a bunch, training for upcoming comps and the recent projects that have been shown to me. I saw this new line at the PB Boulders the other day that is extremely inspiring and quite possibly v14! I tried it a bit the other week and am really psyched to get back on it. It is a slightly overhung wall with crimps the entire way, absolutely possible but is going to be extremely hard. Other than that there are 2 cool new projects at eldo that i believe could hold some potential, i cleaned this new roof at eldo that would have 2 very difficult roof moves to a jug followed by an extremely hard mantle at the lip. The other project i have yet to see but have heard good things. over hung wall holds the whole way up, just needs some good cleaning. Other than that I am psyched for Suspension of Disbelief again once it gets colder. Today was the first snow in Boulder but it was too warm too stick, thank goodness! not psyched on the winterly months ahead.

This weekend I went to Poudre on saturday and climbed two new boulders and one that i had previously sent. I warmed up and went directly to "Circadian Rhythm" to see how i would be climbing that day and fired the climb off first go. Rad, Rad climb, just wish the rock were not behind it in the start. Next I went over the "Sharma Lunge" which I had never tried before and was psyched to give a flash effort. Got super close on my flash go and fired it off next try along with the sit start in two goes as well. After that I headed down to the Scarface boulder and decided I would try to start on scarface and head directly up the face. This climb had previously been done a long time ago but the starting hold out right broke. Im not sure if where I started was a first ascent but definitely was a fun climb and a nice crimper test piece for the area. It then began to rain and the day dwindled to an end as we hiked out in the sleet.

Other than that, I just finished a new abstract painting of the flatirons that i will post a picture of once i get it back from my teacher on Monday. oh projects! I'm psyched! i was def getting a little bored for a while but i really think that the PB boulders along with the projs at eldo will hold some truly beautiful futuristic lines. Other than that, Im heading to Joe's this weekend as long as the weather holds out. Psyched to go for the the FA of the broken "No Additives." we'll see.

Friday, September 28, 2007

dali wall (check)

Yesterday was beautiful so I was psyched on some outdoor climbing. I headed to Mt. Evans to meet up with Herm and Jody. I got there around 3 pm and the temps were better than expected! Herm was working on Greener grasses so i decided my goal for the day would be to complete then entire Dali wall in one day. By 6 pm I had completed the entire wall! Today I'm super tired from yest and a little nervous for my slideshow tomorrow night at the Horse Tooth Hang. Below is the list in order of my ascents yesterday:

Warm up Crack Thing, 1st go
No More Greener Grasses, 1st go
Clear Blue Skies, 1st Go
Mental Masturbation, 2nd go
Ode to the Modern Man, 4th go
Super Gui, 1st go
Dali, 1st go
Pat's Arete Low aka SIT START, 2nd go

I got some video of my most recent ascent of Ode to the Modern Man which I will be premiering at my slide show tomorrow night at the Hang!

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Both Sides of the Spectrum

AMAZING boulder! props to Harry on FA. Go out and try it, it is definitely one of the better new lines in CO!



And here is Lady, the coolest pup in the world.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

coloraddddddo



Been back in Colorado for a while now! Climbing a bunch and trying to find new boulders. Yesterday I went to Camp Dick in search of a new highball that Scott Neel shown me pictures of the previous week. Him and I hiked out there around noon to find a beautiful 25 foot unclimbed vertical granite boulder. I was psyched but a bit scared of the climb itself. The landing was good and together we had 7 crashpads, but i didn't have a spotter, though I'm not sure that if you fell off the top a spotter would be of any sort of help. The boulder begins with a very technical v7 which leads to a nice jug then another technical boulder of about v8/9 for the last 10 ft of the climb. heres a picture to give perspective of the height.



Photos scott neel

As of now, I'm super psyched to find some more new boulders to climb on and hopefully get the FA of. I have a few in mind and really hope that we have a nice snowless fall here in Colorado.



JADE! peep it in the upcoming Dosage V!!! photo steve woods

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

back in CO

I'm back in Colorado for the year once again. Hopefully this year will be as productive as the last if not even more. Lately I have been climbing up at RMNP when it is not raining. I have had a few good days and have thus far sent some really fun climbs. I feel like I am getting back into the climbing out here very quickly.

Yesterday I headed up to RMNP with Daniel and Ryan Sewell. We warmed up then rain a train on the new "Friday the 13th" a really good boulder but i believe to be a bittttt soft for v10. none the less it climbs well and was fun to do. After that we headed up to the green wall area of the park. I tried the top of Jade for a short while and felt strong on it and cant wait to get back from the show in a few days to try it more. Other than that Daniel and I tried "Leviatan Style" and he sent very quickly. My first day on it was very good and I managed to fall off at the top after a little bit of effort.

Next we tried this amazing new project to the left of Jade on the arete. I managed to get the FA from a crouch start and named it "don't get toooo gready." Daniel and Ryan sent shortly after. Daniel and I tried it from the sit and got extremely close! This seems like it is going to be a great new boulder and very hard at that... atleast v13 i think. Once the show is done, I'm heading directly to the boulder to go for the send!

Sorry for no pictures but I don't have my computer right now to load any. But I will have it by tomorrow and will load some new pictures of the project! I'm off to the trade show tomorrow! The competition this year looks veryyyy stiff, should be exciting!

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Back Home

I just got back the other night from a great 20 day trip to California! The weather was warm, but where is it not in the United States right now? Ive begun to understand that there is really no escaping the summer anymore and the easiest thing to do is just deal with the heat because Autumn will be here soon enough.

So, the trip! It was really good, climbed at the areas of Donner Summit, The Tramway, and Mt. Baldy. The climbing out in So Cal should definitely not be put off by the avid boulderer. The Tramway is absolutely amazing granite and the rock seems to be endless! Mt. Baldy is an amazing area as well with beautiful river polished boulders on the side of a now stream that keeps the forest cool during the day. And Donner, though not in So Cal, is amaing as well, yet another place in this country with impeccable granite. Here are some pictures from the trip!



Black Mamba, Tram



White Lines, Donner


Standing on the Head of a Dragon, AMAZING!, Tram


A View as you go up the tram

I am now back home in NJ for one more week before I head back to Colorado for another year! Should be fun! There are a lot of boulder problems that I am very psyched to get on (Ode, Jade, Suspension, and a few others)!!! Now I just have to keep on training for them and the big comp coming up ina few weeks at the OR Show in Salt Lake City.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Another Trip to GB

This time I went with Daniel. He absolutely killed it even though it was super hot out. Here are some Pics!


Something From Nothing


Fotowa SDS

I'm heading to Southern California tomorrow for a 20 day trip! I'm really psyched to see areas like the Tramway, Black Mountain, and Mt. Baldy. Stay tuned for pictures from the trip.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

the newness


not sure what to name it yet...

Monday, June 25, 2007

Great Barrington

This past weekend I made a quick visit to the town of Great Barrington in Western Massachusetts. The town is home to some of the best Gneiss bouldering in the entire country, and has one of the coolest boulders I have ever seen, the Speed Boulder. This boulder has such classics as "Something from Nothing" and "Roses and Blue Jayes." I got up there on Friday morning and went with a local friend to a new are he had found called the darkside just up the road from the main bouldering at Great Barrington. It ended up being a cool spot with some very futuristic projects. I tried one of which that looked possible but ended up getting shut down by it... if this climbe ever goes it will be realllllllly hard... 1 easy roof move followed by an insane dyno and a tough top out. To the right of this line on the same roof I saw a line on the arete that looked much easier and would be a cool FA. I call it "Just in Time," because right after sending this it began raining and we all bailed under a cave until the rain stopped.

The next day was an awesome day with amazing temps for the northeast in the summer, 67 and sunny with a little wind! Josh Lowell (www.biguproductions.com), Cooper Roberts, Sarah and myself headed to the main area of Great Barrington to get some footage for Dosage Volume V. I climbed both a second ascent of this amazing problem called "Castellette SDS" and a repeat ascent of "Roses and Bluejayes" for the film. The footage came out really well and I'm super psyched to see them both all edited up. I also am super psyched to work Daniel on a Colorado Dose with Chuck Fryberger for the New Dosage Volume V as well.

I was really psyched to do "Castellette SDS" since it had been a project of mine for some time now. I began trying it right after I did "Something from Nothing" a few years back but didn't put any more work into it until right after I sent "Roses and Blue Jayes" This past November. I tried it that day and still could not do the crux lock off bump move... similar to that of "left el jorge" but much harder. But this weekend was different, I felt really strong on the lock off move and stuck in a bunch of tries but kept falling off the last wild jump move to a sloping slot. But after a bunch of tries I sent and was very pleased with the progression. I also chalked up this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes" that Dave tried a few years ago after he completed "Roses and Blue Jayes." The line is a 4 move crimp fest up a steep wall with bad feet. Dave believed it to be at least v14 if not v15. I tried the line and I would definitely have to agree! It is really HARD! I can't wait to try it again this upcoming week and this November over my Thanksgiving Break.

Now I'm back at my house in NJ. Daniel flies in tomorrow and we are again off to Great Barrington. I'm really psyched to get him on the lines of the Speed boulder as well as this amazing project to the left of "Roses and Blue Jayes." The weather as of now is not looking to prime but hopefully it will cool off!

I just finished a new painting the other day. I need to upload the pictures to my computer and I should be posting them this evening. OHHH and I would like to say amazing effort to Daniel on the FA of "Jade" in RMNP. I can't wait to try the boulder more this fall!

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Dreaming

I'm back home now. New Jersey. It's been hot and humid and I don't think I have seen a day under 95 since I have been home. My days have been filled with a new painting I am working on, hanging with my family and friends, and training very hard for the upcoming comps along with upcoming perfect Autumn in Colorado. I was going through some pictures the other day and since seeing this picture:


The Green 45 Project. This boulder is a dream of mine and really hope that all my training over the years can come together so that I can send this amazing boulder problem this Fall. I Can't stop thinking about it... and the cold temps of September in RMNP cannot come soon enough. This boulder, when completed, I think will be the hardest in the country if not the entire world. It stands at a level of its own and is sitting right now in Middle Chaos Canyon waiting for someone to come along and nab the much sought after first ascent.

Also, congrats out to a few people on some recent sends; Ty and Daniel on their recent 1st and 2nd ascents of the "Power of 10" RMNP, Sarah Orens on "Even Lovely" Gunks, Laura Griffiths on "Marble Direct" RMNP, and Max Zolothukin on "The Gobot" and "The Kind Traverse" in RMNP. Very impressive sends by all!!!

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Picture Update

Here is the Japan picture update...


Tokyo



A very crowded Bus Station


They drive some crazy cars in Japan

Shibara, The roof with Hydra and all of Dai's hard link-ups



Me on a problem I forgot the name of


Me on "Sen"

Climbing in the Five Ten Cup at PUMP II Climbing Gym

Monday, June 11, 2007

Home!

I am back in NJ now for a few weeks. The last few weeks have been pretty hectic but a lot of fun. I got back from Japan and flew to Denver where I competed in the Vail Teva Mountain Games. It went well and I got second to Daniel. After the comp I went with Tim Kemple and Chris Lindner to Joe's Valley to shoot the cover of the next Urban Climber! The Picture is sooooooooooooo rad! so def check that out when it comes out in a month.


wadedavid.com


After that I went to Salt Lake for a few days hung out with Tim and climbed a bit in the heat. I flew home a few days ago and went to the Gunks this weekend. It was really really hot. But none-the-less got to get some climbing in and sent some really fun lines. My camera was stolen and now I am lacking a camera. I hope to get another soon. Sorry for the lack of photos recently... but I promise they will be up shortly and worth the wait!!!

The rest of this month will be spent training for the ASCI Comp in western Maryland at the end of the month. July I am planning on leaving New Jersey and heading to either Southern California for some high altitude bouldering or to South Africa if I can manage to get everything sorted out in the next week or so. I'm realllllly hoping South Africa comes together as that trip would be amazing!

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Japan

So I have been in Japan for the past few day and it has been amazing! The flight here was about 17 hours long but well worth it. Japan is a really fun place filled with lots and lots of people. I started my trip by flying into the Narita Airport and was shortly thereafter picked up by a 5.10 representative Kahaiho. He is a very nice guy who has been taking me around for the past few days. He is one of the few people here that I can actually communicate well with. It has been hard having to use mostly hand gestures for the last few days but a good experience for myself.

So far I have only climbed in the gym, but it both gyms I went to were really fun. My second day here I visited BPUMP 2. this is an all bouldering gym about 45 minutes south of Tokyo by train. Yesterday I competed in the Five Ten Cup, which was an experience in itself! The day started with a 60 foot lead climb (which I got my butt kicked in), followed by a bouldering competition (Which was a ton of fun and was fortunate enough to win!!!), followed by a speed competition, followed by a campusing competition, followed by a dyno competition. And that was just the semi-final round! The competition was a lot of fun and I will post pictures of once I get back to the United States.

Today, I am headed to an area outside where I have wanted to visit for some time now, Shiobara. This area is home to many of Dai Koyamada's infamous hard lines. I am very excited to try them even though I am pretty tired from yesterday and the day before climbing adventures. I am most psyched for two main lines that I have heard a lot about in the past, Hydra and Karamba. Both climb out a huge 30 foot roof and look to be just beautiful. I will take lots of pictures today and post when I return, as I fly back to the United States tomorrow afternoon.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

New Hampshire

Sorry for the long lapse of no blog entries, I have been busy climbing up a storm in New Hampshire. The state is full of untapped beautiful granite! I had a great trip and the weather cooperated for us decently. Though we did have some rain and humidity, there were still dome really good days of sunshine and good bouldering.

I started my trip at an area close to Hanover, Etna. This area is very small but has some world class granite. The first day there was hot but none-the-less I had a blast. My friends from New York, Rocco and Ed, drove up for the weekend and we went directly to work on this amazing problem called "Blockbuster." The line is beautiful! Here is a picture of Ed working "Blockbuster."


We also went to an amazing boulder in the middle of the woods right by this amazing lak called "Spec Pond." Here is a picture of the Pond!


Spec Pond was a great area and I managed to get the first ascent of this really amazing line, "Spectacle Illusion" that goes right out the middle of this beautiful overhang. I also worked this project to the right which I am really excited to go back for in the future.

I also got to do some climbing at the more well-known areas of Rumney and Pawtuckaway. Both areas were a lot of fun. The granite at Pawtuckaway is amazing!!! Some of the best I have climbed on. At rumney I had a really good day of climbing and flashed both "Satan's Choice" and "Satan on a half shell" both of which are at the black jack boulder. At Pawtuckaway I sent two amazing lines that climb some impeccable granite, "Child of the Storm" and "Stand and Deliver." Both of these lines are on the Swirly boulder, one of the best boulders in all of New England.

All in all, a very exciting week! I am heading to Japan for a week on Wednesday and am super psyched about that. Until then it will be some indoor training to get ready.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Congrats to Daniel on his recent send of Suspension of Disbelief, V14. This boulder problem overcomes an amazing 18 foot wall with really hard moves to a very tough dyno finish. Daniel finished it on his seventh day of effort. He comments,

"if terre de sienne, esperanza, and swarm gets v14 and suspension gets 13,then all those should be 1" I
would completely agree with Woods. Though this is impossible that the above mentioned boulder are V12 but it does give people who have never tried Suspension a bit of an understanding of how hard it is. I have also tried Suspension for 5 days so far and feel that it has to be v14. It is the hardest thing I feel that I have ever tried except for the green 45 project. I cannot wait for the fall to get back on this amazing line when I get back to Colorado again but until then this boulder will definitely remain in my mind at night.

In other news, the gunks was a lot of fun. The weather was not prime but it was nice climbing with my girlfriend and great friends from back east. We went to Lost City on Saturday and had a blast. I managed to flash some really cool problems and the FA of this great v10 i called, "a dose of Novocaine" because it was darnnnn sharp! I also got the third ascent of this great v12, "ghost of an ant" and the FA since it recently broke. I will post some pics of Daniels send shortly.


Again great job Daniel!!! This boulder is quite possibly the hardest thing on the Front Range... but "Ode to the Modern Man" is a strong contender as well! I can't wait to try that one as well this upcoming fall. It does need a second!


Thursday, May 3, 2007

no send :(

well today was really hot and humid.. not the best conditions for sending something at your limit. None the less I had a fun day and some good attempts. Daniel also had some good attempts but did not send. I believe he is going out there this weekend to try it some more. I am headed to the Gunks this weekend! It's been quite a while since I have been to the Gunks. It should be a fun weekend of seeing friends and hanging with the girl friend.

Updates to come on the Gunks trip, and hopefully some pictures!

Suspension of Disbelief Part 2

Here I am again posting over my latest obsession. This boulder problem is just so exciting for me. I feel that it is at my limit right now and completing this boulder would be one of my best accomplishments thus far in my climbing career.

I am heading out to Suspension today with Daniel, his dad, Scott (the master filmer), and his friend Alden. The weather here in CO seems to be cooperating quite well today. As I look out the window all I can see is blue skies and nice white clouds rolling by. weather.com is not predicting any rain and I'm really hoping today is the day.

I will post a re cap of the day later tonight... stay tuned!

To keep the eyes happy, here is a picture I found today that my good friend sent me of this new amazing boulder in NH. I am heading there in a little over a week to try a lot of amazing projects and shoot photos with Tim Kemple. Here is one of the boulders... all of the lines are projects!!!