Weekend

So this weekend was really really nice... if you like sitting around and getting a tan.. It was really REALLY hot on the front range and i'm pretty sure nothing over V10 got sent this weekend. I rested on saturday because of my split tip from Suspension. Sunday rolled around and it was yet again hot as crap. I decided to head up to Clear Creek for the day and see what would be climbable.

We went to this boulder that Nick had done over the winter and I had neither seen or tried before, Animal V10. The boulder pretty much is the worst ever. If it was not a dabfest it would have been really cool but none the less the crux is keeping your kneesoff the pad at the end. Nick repeated it in a few tries and I nearly flashed but dabbed topping out (what a suprise!) but sent a few tries later.

Today was a session a good session at Cats. I felt like I really did not climb too much over the weekend so it was good to train at Cats today.

I cannot keep Suspension out of my mind! My tip is healing really well right now and I'm really hoping Weds lends itself to being an amazing day fro climbing. I am heading out there with Daniel and Keith Ladzinski to shoot photos, so that should be good motivation to send... Cold weather, wind, and no humidity make your way upon Eldorado Canyon for Weds!

Here is a picture I took of my good friend Andy on this really great warmup in Eldo from last weeks session out there!

:(

Yep, I think that describes it all. No send, but definately some progress. I got into the stand start twice, but ended up splitting my tip. I have one week left in Colorado before the summer, I need to do this boulder next week!

Chaos in Contemporary Society

My art work is finally finished... over 30 hours over work and here it is! sorry I could not hang it up, I didn't have any screws to put it into the wall.

Suspension of Disbelief

ladzinski.com

The weather is looking good for tomorrow! If the weather reamins good, I'm really psyched to go to Suspension of Disbelief... One of the best and hardest boulders on the Front Range!

Another Rainy Day in CO

It has been raining for pretty much the last 3 days straight now in Colorado and snowing above 7,000 feet elevation. I woke up this morning to some sun and was super psyched to go climbing outside. By the time Daniel got to my dorm at around 12:30 it had begun raining again and we got super bummed but decided what the heck... let's just drive out to Clear Creek and see how the boulders look.

We had one boulder in mind. Daniel had called Harry and got directions to this new boulder, "Cuntor" put up by Scott Hahn a few weeks back. We drove out there and after getting into the canyon the rain had died down a lot and it looked like not too bad whether sans the very wet rock. We made the epic trudge to the boulder since we could not find the tyrolean and just to our luck only 3 holds were wet!!! We worked it for aabout 30 mins and it was looking very promising. With bits of rain every once in a while, I sent and got the third ascent and after a quick rest daniel also sent with a follow up 4th ascent. Good day for such crappy weather!

I checked out some of the routes on the primo wall and decided I would be psyched to try the route "prime evil" 5.14a sometime soon, possibly next week. After this We decided to leave but we were not psyched to hike all the way back. At first we found a large branch and hiked it up stream aways and tried to make a bridge. That ended terribly with me almost falling into raging rapids and merely escaping getting completely drenched. Since that didnt work we just decided to go to a calm spot and fjord it. That was a success but barely! The water was freezing cold, the rocks hurt our feet so bad and our pants got soaking wet! none the less we did not do the hike all the way out and eventually made it to Theo's wall for a nice training session!

Joe's Trip

Yep, so Joe's Valley is definately one of the best bouldering areas in the country, hands down. Huge proud lines one after another fill amazing valleys. The trip went well and lots of sending went down!
Daniel and I went out there with a few boulders in mind, but the main one being the second ascent of "Mask of God" on the powerline boulder which ticks in at V13. This boulder problem is amazing and quite hard as well. The boulder begins with a V11 crux into a short V7 followed by about a V12 top crux section with a crzy bump finish at about 20 feet off the ground. The landing is not that good and about 7 or more pads is needed to protect the fall. I managed to get to the last move a few times on link but could not manage to finish it, but Daniel pulled through and hooked up the second ascent on saturday night! Congrats to Daniel on such a sick send! Below is a picture of himworking the last few moves on toprope before the actual send.


After not sending "Mask of God" I was kinda bummed but super psyched Daniel got the SA. I hope to go back for it sometime soon! I think my next trip it will go down really fast!

Other than mask of god we had a super fun weekend doing lots of moderates around Joe's Valley. Daniel and Olson hooked up a very fast ascent of "Finger Hut" V10. Daniel and I both sent "We Call him Michael" V10 in two goes each and I did "Beyond Life" on my second go as well. The Beyond life wall is quite an amazing wall and everyone of the boulders on it is high quality and all worth doing.

The rest of the trip went very well Chuck Fryberger hooked up Trent's Mom in short work and I got the first flash the problem has ever seen! Psyched!!! I also flashed my first V12 "Prince of Thieves." This boulder along with many others in Joe's is a hidden jem that should be attempted by all! Daniel got really close to sending but the rain came in and the topout got a little too epic but none the less he will kill it first try next trip.

All in all an amazing weekend filled with really fun people! I'm psyched to return to the land of endless boulders (Joe's) very soon!!!

joes!

I'm heading to Joe's in the next hour or so and am super psyched! Hopefully the weather will be good!!!

Pictures!

Sick! I have the picture thing figure out!!! Below is "A Maze of Death" one of my favorite boulder problems I have ever done. Though it is not highball like most other lines in Buttermilk Country this boulder has some of the coolest moves I've ever done on some amazing rock!

And above is one other problem that I did in Bishop that had been a boulder I had really wanted to do for a long time, "Spectre." This picture shows the new bit of beta I figures out. Pretty much I did it the same way as Dave on the FA excat instead of going all the way to the sloping hold above my left hand I went to this crappy intermediate first that really helped me keep my feet on.

Psyched on being able to have pictures now!

Post Dos (that means 2 in Spanish)

"UMMMM today was pretty cool." Thursdays are always fun for me... I only have one class in the morning and then the rest of the day is always free! Today, my good friend from back east, Andy Salo, called me up and told me he was in CO and psyched to go climbing. I was psyched and the day was perfect for climbing. We headed out to the Dark Waters boulder. Andy did some really good links and only has about one more move to go until he has done them all... definately could send before his trip is over. Other than that, I repeated Dark Waters in a few goes and climbed formula 50 as well. Both problems were really fun to repeat and the day was just beautiful.After that we headed up to the main area of Clear Creek. I showed Andy a few other cool boulder problems and we climbed on the Mavericks wall fro a while. We tried 41st street and that was a bad decision before I even started climbing on it. First go I got to the top and fell and busted my ankle on this root and second go I fell off topping it out and destroyed my left arm. arg! Andy hooked the boulder with good steez... I was super scared spotting but he killed it none the less.So yea, then we headed to Cats. I climbed for a while but the atmosphere was definately not that of training. Olson, DW, Andy, Danielson, Kev, and me started jumping on the trampolines and trying to do crazy campus moves on these rungs. Oh and i cant figure out how to put pictures on this site... ill figure it out soon...

post 1

so yea, I decided to start a blog. I thought it would be a fun idea and give me something to do. I was motivated by the blogs off of climbing.com and thought it might be fun to have one of my own. I plan on trying to update this as much as possible with what I have been climbing on or art work I have been doing.

Today I went up to Eldo. I did this cool thing called "germ free adolescence" along with its sit start for this movie that Andy Mann and Scott ? are filming. The movie production seems to be a super awesome idea: amazing "majestic" (as woods would say) lines all around CO. I had fun shooting with them along with climbing with Daniel today. After ger free we went over to this cool v9, I think it was called "stacking the chips." Daniel climbed it a bunch for the camera and I was content on just doing it once, since I had done germ free like 8 other times. This boulder is quite good and definately worth checking out. I thought it was pretty tough and definately was a bit hair rasing at the top. Andy Mann took some cool pictures today and I'm sure they will be on his site shortly.

Other than that, I was psyched to try "Suspension of Disbelief" today. When we got to Eldo the weather was pretty muggy and gross so I decided that it would not be worth it to hike all the way back there and possibly have it be way too humid to climb on. Plus, I was third day on and that problem, for me atleast, is realllly hard!!! Suspension has been a problem I have been wanting to do for a while. I really hope that I can send it before I have to leave CO for the summer. One more cold day is all I need!

The day was fun, I definately enjoyed the climbs I did as well as this crazy rock jump that we had to do since the water level was so high. Im pretty psyched on this blog idea, seems like fun. Now, back to this painting that has taken over the other side of my life, that I will post pictures of once I am done!