27 crags blogging contest

check it out!!! Really cool contest for a chance to win money towards some of your favorite climbing companies right HERE!!!!

27crags.com

My girlfriend just started working for this sweet website based out of Finland that combines the best aspects of blogger.com and mountainproject.com- its called 27crags.com

It connects climbers all over the world, gives you insight to climbs you are interested in, has a place for you to put the climbs you have done and the climbs that have been your favorite, and for each climb there is a description, photo, map and topo (if a climb is lacking one of them, any member can fill in the missing piece.)

Anyway, you become a member so you have an account and have the ability to add information. I'm starting an account and I'm gonna put up a bunch of photos and topos and you all should too!

27crags.com

The Insiders Video

Here it is! The video is here and Big Up Productions has done an amazing job with it!! check it out HERE!!

paintings for sale

I am leaving Colorado in a month and am in great need of getting rid of a bunch of my paintings. If anyone wants any of these I can sell them for cheap. They need a good home so please let me know! Please feel free to email me at boulder.on(at)comcast.net if you have any questions! Thanks!

Earth Treks in a week

The Earth Treks comp is on one week and I am in my last ditch efforts trying to get into indoor shape before the event. I feel pretty good and hope that I can do well this go around! I was going to go to Joe's this weekend but decided to stick around boulder and climb on plastic to train for the comp next weekend.

On Weds, for example I had quite the day of climbing which was awesome! I started at noon by trying the game for 3 hours (felt good to get back on it again, will be trying this weekend too), then climbed at the gym for 3 hours sport climbing and bouldering, and finally went up to Gabor's new climb "botslayer" and managed a flash ascent after having had climbed for over 6 hours that day. It was a nice ending to the day, but my tips were hurting after that one!

A lot of comps are coming up and I am psyched for all of them! I hope that by the time world cup comes around I will be in the best indoor shape of my life and ready for it all!

more updates to come.

minnesotakkiiiii

Paul Robinson in Minnesota from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

I made some sweet holds for nicros this weekend and was able to get outside and make the 2nd ascent of the classic climb the raven put up by Nic Oklobja a couple of months ago. Chyeaaaaaa. Keep an eye out for the signature sets from nicros coming out soon!

the thoughts on v16

besides hearing the FRFM controversy I have been hearing a bit of cntroversy about the grading of my new climb. None of this upsets me, and I am glad that people are intrigued by the possibility of how hard this climb may be. Some people, including me, believe the climb to be v16/8c+ and others do not feel that it could possibly be this hard. I would like to put my thoughts out there in regards to the difficulty of "lucid dreaming."

I have been climbing since i was 11 years old. I started from the very bottom and know what it felt like for v0 to be difficult. I have worked through each grade. Every grade brought up its own difficulty for me and some i struggled a great deal with while others were not as hard. Some years I would jump a few grades and others none at all. Through each year of my climbing career i have felt much stronger and have improved both mentally and physically as well as technically.

Since I climbed my first v15's, Jade in late 2007 and Terremer in early 2008, a lot of time has passed. Since the day that I climbed terremer until the other day I had not sent a climb that was rated the same grade or harder. I have climbed well over 500 days since the day that i climbed terremer and know that i have become a much better climber in this time period. I have climbed multiple v14's and 5.14d in a very quick fashion and have competed well in both national and world cup bouldering competitions, all of which preparing me for the climb i sent yesterday. Not only have i competed and climbed outside, but i have also put in more than my fair share of days in the climbing gym, training as hard as i possibly could to one day push the standards of boudering. I would say that in the two year time frame from Terremer to now, I have climbed multiple problems in CATS that are of very similar difficulty to "lucid dreams", "terremer", etc. This, I know does not count for anything but again has prepared me for the hardest of climbs outside.

In the past 2 months I have put a good 7 days of effort into attempting Daniel's "the game" in boulder canyon. This climb in my opinion is a quintessential marker in bouldering. This climb in my mind is v16. This climb is really really hard. I have now been able to do the climb in 2 overlapping sequences and hope to be able to finish the entire line before the temps get too hot. This climb was a good basis for me on how to grade my climb in bishop.

After working "lucid dreaming" and eventually sending the line, it was very hard for me to come up with an idea of its difficulty. The climb is very different from "the game" and requires much different strengths to complete. I thought about terremer and jade. Both of which have a single move that mark the crux. "lucid" has a 2 move crux sequence which i believe to be even more difficult than if you were to combine the jade crux move with the terremer crux move. This 2 move sequence truly was an epic for me. I fell on each of the move hundreds of times and the ability to link the two moves came after 12 days of patiently waiting for everything to be perfect. I know that these two moves joined together are the two hardest single moves in a row that i have ever done. I know that it is a great deal harder that jade and terremer. And i know that this to some does not justify the grade of v16 but in conjunction with the training, the comps, the time, everything from the moment i did terremer to the moment i did "lucid" a lot has changed. I have become a much better climber in every aspect of my climbing. I know that this climb may get downgraded by the second ascendant, however in my mind I know that this is BY FAR the 2 hardest move i have ever completed and in a way really marks a break through for me. Terremer and Jade are one insanely hard move cruxes. This is 2. What will it take to be able to do 3 of these moves in a row? What will the grade on that be? And where can i find this climb? because i want to start working it.

Please feel free to comment. I would love to hear what others have to say and if anyone has any questions ask away.

The footage of "lucid dreams" will be premiered in this years fifth annual reel rock film tour. Check the dates of when the show will be around you as it is looking to be the best one yet!

the indoor shoot

So here is an awesome write-up from the indoor shoot i did in MA last weekend! the video is going to be sick!!!!

Matador Sports

route setting at Movement

I set a route at Movement the other week and was psyched with how it turned out! Here is me doing the first ascent! This was my first route i have ever set and it was hard work!

P-Robbed from movement on Vimeo.

movie by: the one and only Mike Moelter

the late

lately i have been kicking it in Boulder, doing the school thing and training a bunch. I have been getting on the game a bit and i feel like the line is coming together!!! I have spent five days on it and the moves are all starting to get linked together and I am hoping to try it again tomorrow! This line is by far one of the hardest things i have tried and would love to be able to piece it together for the second ascent.

Besides that i have rediscovered the training board at movement which i am really psyched to be training my weakness on, open handed holds and lots of them. I have set myself some really great climbs to train on and am psyched to continue to do my campus routines on them to get stronger for my upcoming trips and competitions.

This next weekend, I am headed to Boston to film with Big Up Productions on this new indoor film shoot. It is going to be an attempt to make indoor climbing appealing to the masses. Chris Danielson is going to be the head setter for the shoot and I am psyched to be a part of it all. More details to come later!

And after Boston, it will only be a few weeks until my return to Bishop for an attempt at the Rasta Man Sit start. It has been quite a while since I tried the line but am feeling stronger than ever and hope to be able to piece it all together this time around!!! I really hope I can as i feel this would be a great contribution to the hard boulder problems in the united states.

stay tuned for more!

abs nationals

I am heading to abs nationals in virginia this weekend. I have been training pretty hard and am psyched for the comp this weekend! the comp looks to be in quite the winter wonder land. The competiton field looks to be pretty big, i am just hoping everyone will be able to make it to VA to compete with the recent weather epics on the east coast.

Check out this great AAC short promo video. Found it on Youtube this morning and was impressed.



Best of luck to everyone competing this weekend!

new blog on dpm

Check out my new blog on DPM of my most recent trip to red rocks with some cool pictures from the trip taken by alex. HERE!

i am heading to the Outdoor retail show this weekend to meet with a bunch of companies as well as compete in the rope nationals. I am definitely in much better bouldering shape than i am rope climbing however, i am still excited to give the comp a shot and hopefully do decently well.

Besides that, school has started again for my last semester at CU before heading over seas for a while. My classes are decent and i only have school tues and thurs which is a plus and will let me travel for climbing on the weekends much more!

I am heading up to Boulder Canyon today in hopes of getting on the roof project. I did the stand start a few years ago and it seems as if the sit start will end up weighing in around the 14/15 area. it will be nice to give a first day of effort on it today from the bottom.

new video

chuck made a great video about my life as a climber and painter. take a look. very happy with how it came out!

*click the video to open it in youtube as it will not embed correctly here*

boulder

i am now back to boulder. the 4 week trip was amazing! after arkansas i headed to red rocks to check out the first ascent potential. i soon found that the potential there was endless! people tend to go to red rocks for the sport climbing however i could easily see this area becoming quite popular in the future! as for my trip i did a bunch of exploring and climbed a few lines that will only be the begining of the climbing in red rocks! i found an amazing project and cant wait to get back again soon! check out one of the fa's i did inred rocks as well as my 2nd ascent of lost in the hood atDPM



Also check out this really cool grant that the AAC just announced for Jonny Copp and Micah Dash
HERE. try and get your trip funded by writing about your latest adventures you are planning! check the link to find out more.

too cold

Well, the weather has turned to pure crap here in arkansas. To sum it up it rained for 3 days straight and on the last day it turned to snow and turned most everything to ice. The climbing today was decent however it was so cold that my tips turned to glass and the rock felt like i was grabbing ice rather than amazing textured sandstone. So instead of sticking it out and dealing with mid 20 degree weather for the next week or so alex and i have made the executive decision to move towards las vegas in search of warmer weather and amazing climbing in and around red rocks! I spoke with a friend who mentioned amazing projects in the red rocks area and we are both very psyched for the escape!

I was not able to get any good days on lost in the hood, however the one day i did try (the right start hold was wet) i came very close to sticking the first crux move giving it around 7 or so tries total. I am bummed i may have to leave this climb undone this trip but think that i will be making a short trip here in January, if the weather permits, to try and finish lost in the hood as well as this amazing project that i got very close to.

spot comp

and here is a short video of me at the last spot bouldering comp on the finals climb of the evening!

Paul Robinson: Men's Final 12/5/09 from Jeff Mack on Vimeo.

organic bouldering sale

Organic makes some pretty amazing stuff, including crashpads, chalkbags, back packs, etc. they are an amazing company and i am super psyched to represent them! They are having a holiday sale on a bunch of their items! so check it out at Organic Climbing!!!

I am headed to Arkansas in less than a week and the psyche is high! there are so many things i want to do in a 2 week span! stay tuned here for updates from the trip!

xmas break... tminus 2 weeks

the psyche is high as there is only 2 weeks before christmas break starts! Alex and I are heading to arkansas first for around 2 weeks. from there it will be off to the st george/vegas area for the last two weeks of our break. I am really looking forward to this trip as the end of this semester has been insanely hectic and it will be very nice to get a month to just relax and climb!

Next semester is looking to be great for climbing as well since i will only have school on tuesday and thurday!!! then after that and a few weeks in may i will be done!!! The plan right now is to go to south africa for 2 months and then make a multi-year journey over to europe with alex to explore the wonders of climbing over there! i already have so many boulders, route, and projects that i am already looking forward to!

But first it is going to be an awesome winter break! I hope to get the second ascent of DG's "lost in the hood" as well as put up a few of my own lines around the horseshoe canyon ranch! The psyche is high and i feel fit at the moment! hopefully a good trip is in store! stay tuned for updates from the road!

The adventure film festival

I am heading to Slovenia in a couple of days and am very psyched! The comp in Brno was last weekend and was awesome to watch the live streaming of and gave me a good idea of what to expect in Kranj! Every day is one day closer to competing and my psyche is suppppperr high!

Besides that there is going to be a really cool film festival going on this upcoming weekend in Boulder, CO! It looks like a great line up of films! If you are in town, check it out.

day 2

day 1

photo: a.kahn

the great escape!

The past 30 hours in boulder have been quite epic. we have about 1.5 feet of snow on the ground and it is still snowing. however there is some good news that comes of this. Joe's Valley is in the prime and Alex and I are making the great escape in the next couple of hours! The weather is looking to be amazing there this weekend and I am psyched! the road are going to be the only issue so hopefully we will make it!

I have a whole list of boulders that i am extremely psyched on for the weekend as well getting as many butterfingers doughnuts from the food ranch.

Onward Bound!



photo: b3bouldering

Slovenia

I just purchased my tickets for the World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia in a coupe of weeks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so psyched and am beyond nervous but more than anything i just cannot wait for the experience i have ahead of myself!!

Got a couple of more weeks to train and then it is game time! This is my first lead comp in a while but i feel fit endurance wise and hope to take home a strong finish for the good ol' us of a.



amazing proj in LCC that i am psyched to get back on hopefully over Halloween weekend!

to joes

off to joes for friday and then a wedding in salt lake on saturday! lots of driving ahead but i am psyched for the wedding and a day in joes!

in other news i think i am going to do the final lead world cup in slovenia!!! very psyched! anyone have any tips on training for a lead comp! hit me up!

have a great weekend all!

the newness...

epic at cats

yesterday i went to cats and made a nice repeat of the epic taped route out the cave. James took nice video of the climb! check out his/the cats blog HERE. The weekend is looking like crap weather so it will be inside for me. i am hoping to get on Vogue next week sometime!

Epic from James O'Connor on Vimeo.