in response to Anonymous

I would like to start things off with a response to a comment that an anonymous person posted today. Here is what he/she said, “…so, do you think it is more important for the grades within a climbing area to be consistent with each other or the absolute magic number?” My response to this is of course grading should be consistent throughout the entire world. Yes there are many kinds of rock and styles of bouldering out there and no way to 100 percent get it down to a science, but we as a climbing community must as a whole come together to reach some sort of consensus on the whole grading debacle. I will first point this out, if you were to grade based solely from one climbing area to another it would be a complete mess. Some areas would miraculously have V27’s but that would be fine because the V21 to the right would be everyone’s warm-up. It just doesn’t work. And at other areas people would try to keep grading in check and how in a climbing community so very based off of numbers, grades, and how many points you have on 8a.nu could this noncohesive system of grading based solely on area ever work. So my goal in downgrading is not to as biggie once said “be a terror since the public school era” but to attempt to travel all over trying to keep grading from exploding out of control. It sucks that that a true feeling of happiness that comes from numbers has made its way into our sport. I know that people still will take the highest grades possible on boulders and routes because it has become a status symbol in our sport, but hopefully with people around the world becoming more inclined to find the correct grade of these climbs they will at least feel slightly bad about what they are doing.

Now that I am past all of that I have been thinking a lot about the harder boulders here in Switzerland and wanted to talk about them on my blog. Since it has been hot I have yet to try many of them so this is only on having felt the holds and looked at the possibility of climbing them (all of which at the moment are graded 8B+ or higher).

The Never Ending Story, Magic Wood – this climb is quite unique from many of the other boulders in Switzerland as it is a water polished river boulder. Most of the harder things tend to be on the longer side and this one is no exception. Starting at the deepest part of the cave you climb out on a lot of heel hooking between very slopey holds to a technical 8A finish. This is the only one that I have tried so far and am very psyched on it. I have put one day into this climb and love it! Coming to Switzerland I had no idea that I would have ever gotten psyched on this climb but climbing on it just made me want to do the full line so badly.

General Disarray, Brione – Until yesterday I had only looked at this climb. I was told that a crucial crimp had broken in the crux sequence last year and that still remains a project, and a hard one at that! This climb was originally graded standard 8B and hadn’t seen that many ascents. Daniel Woods go the last ascent before the break earlier this year. I tried the climb yesterday and it is phenomenal! Though it is still a bit warm down in the valleys of Ticino, it was awesome to try the line and put a few hours worth of work into it. I did all of the moves but one (where the broken hold is) vey fast and quickly became very psyched on unlocking the beta for the broken bit. I eventually figured it out and am very psyched to go back for a hopeful send once it gets a bit cooler outside. My guess is the line will be 8B+.

New Base Line, Magic Wood – This one I have not yet tried but have looked at on two occasions, one of which was soaking wet and the other was slightly wet. The line looks amazing minus a bit of a dabby top section. The climb traverses an upward rising crack to what looks to be a short hard boulder into better holds at the top. Once the weather gets cooler in Magic Wood, I will be definitely putting some time into this line.

Dreamtime, Cresciano – When I arrived in Switzerland this was the first line that I sought out. It is just as amazing as I had dreamed about on many occasions! Cresciano is the last area to cool down since it is at the lowest elevation but when it gets down to around 0c around here that will be the first thing I will be heading up to.

Story of Two Worlds, Cresciano – This climb is a complete turd. The stand start the dagger looks to be alright but the top is by far one of the most dabby sequences I have ever seen. I could barely keep my back off of the rock with my feet on the ground. I may try the dagger but the bottom bit to this climb looks not fun at all. I really have no intentions of trying this climb.

Confessions, Cresciano – This climb looks amazing! Though I have only seen it soaking wet while it was pouring I am super psyched to try this one! I realize that is probably the anti of my style but it is this rad super overhung arête and looks to have some of the best climbing in all of Cresciano! Very psyched on some colder temps to try this one, hopefully soon!

From Dirt Grows the Flowers, Chironico – Further inspections will be needed to give a final evaluation of this climb. But it is what I have hear from many as a hard 8B boulder problem to one of the hardest mantles in the world going at possibly 8A+. I will write back once I find out more about this one and get possibly psyched to try it.

Practice of the Wild, Magic Wood – On my first day of climbing in Switzerland after almost a week of sitting around I somehow got roped into trying this beast of a line. The boulder problem climbs out a very steep cave. The landing is terrible and on many occasions you feel that a fall could end in some serious consequences. The last move is an all out double dyno out of the cave to a bucket which is one of the coolest moves ever. I was able to do all the moves but one in about an hour of work even though most of the holds were either wet or a good bit damp. I am definitely psyched to try this one again when not so jet lagged! This climb is awesome and could definitely be Chris’s hardest boulder FA.

Today is a rest day but tomorrow I am so psyched for! Good looking temps in Magic Wood without any chance of rain!!! Stay posted! Now that I am past all of that I have been thinking a lot about the harder boulders here in Switzerland and wanted to talk about them on my blog. Since it has been hot I have yet to try many of them so this is only on having felt the holds and looked at the possibility of climbing them (all of which at the moment are graded 8B+ or higher).

The Never Ending Story, Magic Wood – this climb is quite unique from many of the other boulders in Switzerland as it is a water polished river boulder. Most of the harder things tend to be on the longer side and this one is no exception. Starting at the deepest part of the cave you climb out on a lot of heel hooking between very slopey holds to a technical 8A finish. This is the only one that I have tried so far and am very psyched on it. I have put one day into this climb and love it! Coming to Switzerland I had no idea that I would have ever gotten psyched on this climb but climbing on it just made me want to do the full line so badly.

General Disarray, Brione – Until yesterday I had only looked at this climb. I was told that a crucial crimp had broken in the crux sequence last year and that still remains a project, and a hard one at that! This climb was originally graded standard 8B and hadn’t seen that many ascents. Daniel Woods go the last ascent before the break earlier this year. I tried the climb yesterday and it is phenomenal! Though it is still a bit warm down in the valleys of Ticino, it was awesome to try the line and put a few hours worth of work into it. I did all of the moves but one (where the broken hold is) vey fast and quickly became very psyched on unlocking the beta for the broken bit. I eventually figured it out and am very psyched to go back for a hopeful send once it gets a bit cooler outside. My guess is the line will be 8B+.

New Base Line, Magic Wood – This one I have not yet tried but have looked at on two occasions, one of which was soaking wet and the other was slightly wet. The line looks amazing minus a bit of a dabby top section. The climb traverses an upward rising crack to what looks to be a short hard boulder into better holds at the top. Once the weather gets cooler in Magic Wood, I will be definitely putting some time into this line.

Dreamtime, Cresciano – When I arrived in Switzerland this was the first line that I sought out. It is just as amazing as I had dreamed about on many occasions! Cresciano is the last area to cool down since it is at the lowest elevation but when it gets down to around 0c around here that will be the first thing I will be heading up to.

Story of Two Worlds, Cresciano – This climb is a complete turd. The stand start the dagger looks to be alright but the top is by far one of the most dabby sequences I have ever seen. I could barely keep my back off of the rock with my feet on the ground. I may try the dagger but the bottom bit to this climb looks not fun at all. I really have no intentions of trying this climb.

Confessions, Cresciano – This climb looks amazing! Though I have only seen it soaking wet while it was pouring I am super psyched to try this one! I realize that is probably the anti of my style but it is this rad super overhung arête and looks to have some of the best climbing in all of Cresciano! Very psyched on some colder temps to try this one, hopefully soon!

From Dirt Grows the Flowers, Chironico – Further inspections will be needed to give a final evaluation of this climb. But it is what I have hear from many as a hard 8B boulder problem to one of the hardest mantles in the world going at possibly 8A+. I will write back once I find out more about this one and get possibly psyched to try it.

Practice of the Wild, Magic Wood – On my first day of climbing in Switzerland after almost a week of sitting around I somehow got roped into trying this beast of a line. The boulder problem climbs out a very steep cave. The landing is terrible and on many occasions you feel that a fall could end in some serious consequences. The last move is an all out double dyno out of the cave to a bucket which is one of the coolest moves ever. I was able to do all the moves but one in about an hour of work even though most of the holds were either wet or a good bit damp. I am definitely psyched to try this one again when not so jet lagged! This climb is awesome and could definitely be Chris’s hardest boulder FA.

Today is a rest day but tomorrow I am so psyched for! Good looking temps in Magic Wood without any chance of rain!!! Stay posted! Video of "La Pelle" coming soon!